Town-Hopping In The Coffee Triangle — A Travel Guide • Indie Traveller

There’s a spot in Colombia the place I felt actually within the zone. And it occurred to be the Zona Cafetera.

This land of fertile valleys sprinkled with small pueblos is the place most of Colombia’s espresso originates. It’s additionally one of the crucial enjoyable components of Colombia to discover.

I used to be transferring from one espresso city to a different by the use of a Chiva, a colourful sort of modified truck that’s used as a neighborhood bus. It moved at a nail’s tempo and acquired caught within the mud just a few occasions, however I didn’t thoughts the syrupy-slow journey, being handled to such great scenes of native life and views of superb landscapes.

We handed rolling hills quilted with smallholder espresso and banana plantations. Butterflies and hummingbirds darted from flower to flower. In villages, mustachioed ranchers and low farmers carrying striped ponchos and white hats went about their each day enterprise.

All this gave me a pleasant sense of place. It’s a sense that continued throughout my two weeks of hopping by means of the Coffee Zone (also called the Coffee Triangle or Eje Cafetero in Spanish).

Whether you’d like so as to add a espresso city or two to your Colombia itinerary, otherwise you want to comply with my actual route as proven within the map, let me share with you all the main points.

Where is the Zona Cafetera?

Colombia’s fertile coffee-growing area is discovered roughly inside a triangle between the cities of Medellin, Cali, and Bogota. This total space is acknowledged by UNESCO as an distinctive instance of a sustainable and productive cultural panorama.

Much of this area is mountainous with the espresso typically cultivated in small plots on steep slopes. Being typically at increased elevations, the climate is pleasantly milder than on the searingly scorching and sweaty northern coast of Colombia.

Besides the beautiful landscapes, you possibly can get pleasure from villages and cities with colourful conventional structure, a lot of them being among the many acknowledged heritage cities of Colombia.

Don’t have a lot time? Consider simply visiting the cities of Jardín and Salento (or close by Filandia). They’re best to achieve and offer you a very good style of the Coffee Triangle. The small cities of Jericó, Salamina, or Pijao are very attention-grabbing when you get pleasure from quiet locations and going off the overwhelmed path.

Jericó

This was my first cease within the Zona Cafetera and fairly presumably my favourite.

Easily reached from Medellin, it’s nonetheless off the same old journey path. If you’d get pleasure from simply spending time in an genuine espresso city, and don’t thoughts the shortage of any easy-to-book excursions or off-the-rack day journeys, then I can’t advocate Jerico extra extremely.

Part of the enjoyable of Jericó is just to remain on the primary sq. with a beer or a meal and watch native life unfold. Coffee farmers and ranchers carrying their typical hats might be typically seen assembly on the small most important sq. for buying and selling their items or to purchase provides. Jerico simply has an amazing vibe and may be very a lot unspoiled.

In August, Jericó has a giant competition the place lots of of colourful kites are flown over the valley. I used to be sadly there a bit too early, however nonetheless noticed many individuals already practising their kites from the viewing level overlooking the city.

What to do in Jericó

Hike round city, people-watch in the primary sq., go to the viewing level and see the small botanical backyard. More options right here and on this weblog right here. Although there usually are not so many ready-made actions, you possibly can go on espresso excursions within the surrounding space. The Mother Laura Coffee Tour of Jerico will get rave critiques.

Where to remain in Jericó

Backpackers will love Parcerito’s Hostel, which may be very social because it’s constructed round a central courtyard, although the rooms are very primary. Aside from Parcerito’s I additionally stayed within the boutique lodge El Despertar which has a beautiful viewing deck with a scorching tub and pleasant family-run administration. Although I didn’t keep there I additionally draw your consideration to this Riverside Ecoliving Space which can be good for digital nomads.

Where to eat

Restaurante La Gruta affords an incredible set meal at lunch that’s each scrumptious and nice worth. Cafe Don Rafa on the primary sq. for specialty espresso and treats.

Chiva to Jardín

From Jericó to Jardín it’s solely 20 miles (32 km) because the crow flies. But your solely direct transportation possibility is a chiva (a truck transformed right into a bus) that does the journey in about… six hours.

You may say that this can be a syrupy gradual and extremely inefficient approach to hop to the following city — and also you’d be proper.

But have a look at this one other means and it’s really the most affordable tour of the espresso area landscapes you may get. For simply a few bucks, you get to spend a number of hours driving slowly by means of backroads within the Zona Cafetera and also you’ll be handled to some insanely beautiful views particularly in the direction of the tip of the journey.

My chiva acquired caught within the mud… twice. We had to assist a banana truck that had tipped over the aspect of the dust street. We acquired right into a “who blinks first” stand-off with one other chiva on a street that match just one.

It didn’t matter.

This journey was presumably essentially the most enjoyable day I’ve had on this itinerary. It alone was price going to Jericó for.

You can discover the chiva departure level beside the primary sq. in Jericó, reverse of Restaurante La Gruta. It leaves solely a couple of times a day, so inquire regionally for the precise timetable.

Jardín

Literally that means “garden” in Spanish, Jardín is actually a fairly place, with colonial facades and inexperienced mountains forming great backdrops on all sides.

Jardín has quite a bit to do in and round it (far more so than low-key Jerico), which makes it a simple place so as to add into your itinerary. It may serve to properly break up the journey from Medellin to Salento or Armenia.

The most important sq. will get very vigorous with individuals having fun with beers and snacks at colourful chairs and tables. Sometimes you’ll see a neighborhood rancher on horseback going previous. Given its charms and the way a lot there’s to do close by, when you solely have time for one city within the espresso area, I feel Jardín is an ideal alternative.

It’s a well-liked weekend spot for Colombian households and remains to be solely considerably recognized amongst overseas vacationers. There are ten or-so backpacker hostels and lots of small-scale motels to select from in Jardin.

What to do in Jardín

You can hike to a number of waterfalls. The Cueva del Esplendor (Cave of Splendor) is inside a cavern and might solely be reached by the use of an organized tour. La Garrucha, a small metallic gondola that takes you up the mountain, was sadly out of fee after I visited, nevertheless it’s meant to be a enjoyable attraction when it’s open. Paragliding, birdwatching, espresso excursions, and horseback driving are the opposite actions on provide. You can e-book day excursions from Medellin that return the identical day, however when you’re staying longer, you possibly can e-book actions from native businesses or your lodging.

Where to remain in Jardín

The cozy family-run Hostal Naty Luna is a pleasant spot for backpackers and it’s the place I stayed, although it being a bit cramped I might really counsel La Tangara Rural hostal as an alternative. For a ravishing boutique lodge, try Casa Passiflora Hotel.

Where to eat in Jardín

The city is understood for its trout farms the place you may get very contemporary fish at very low costs (ask them to grill it as an alternative of frying it if you need it extra ‘Western’ fashion). La Argelia Restaurante Truchera simply outdoors of city is a enjoyable expertise throughout lunchtime. Don’t miss brunch or espresso at Café Macanas subsequent to the primary church. The artisanal ice cream at Cocoa Café Francés is out of this world — is it bizarre that I had presumably the perfect gelato of my life in a small mountain city in Colombia?

Tip: Most locations within the Zona Cafetera can be noticeably busier on the weekends as native vacationers from Medellin and Bogota go to. Choose weekdays for any locations the place you’d wish to have a quieter time. The distinction is especially noticeable in Salento and Jardin.

Manizales

To add some selection to your Zona Cafetera itinerary, it’s price visiting Manizales. This small college metropolis affords mountain views on each aspect, although it’s extra of a waypoint than a vacation spot in itself. It doesn’t actually have an previous heart and there aren’t that many cultural sights, nevertheless it does have some nice issues to see close by.

It’s nonetheless good to spend perhaps half a day on this non-touristy metropolis in Colombia, then use it as a springboard to visiting Los Nevados National Park.

There you possibly can expertise the páramo — a novel high-altitude ecosystem situated solely within the Andes of Ecuador, Peru, and Colombia.

On the misty slopes, you’ll see fields of frailejones, unusual tree-like crops that develop as much as 3 meters in peak and are distant cousins of the sunflower.

Trekking, biking, or jeep excursions of Los Nevados might be simply booked regionally, resembling by means of Ecosystemas Travel. I did my tour with them and beloved it (although some Spanish data can be very useful).

Unlike the delicate climates within the espresso zone, the Los Nevados National Park can be principally very chilly and misty, however that makes it an attention-grabbing break in your Zona Cafetera route. Many of the excursions cease by volcanic thermal baths, letting you calm down and heat up earlier than returning to your lodging.

What to do in Manizales

Visit the Plaza de Toros bull ring, get some nice views from Chipre Tower, journey the cable automotive connecting the 2 components of the town, or hit up the nightlife; being a giant scholar metropolis it’s recognized for its many bars close to the college areas round Estrella within the east. Manizales has an total higher fame for security than Bogota or Medellin. And, after all, you possibly can e-book a tour of Los Nevados.

Where to remain in Manizales

I stayed at Hostal de la 57 which was completely tremendous. For a lodge within the centre, try Quo Quality Hotel (I can’t imagine this fancy lodge is simply 40 bucks an evening) or Lodge Paraíso Verde for a ravishing finca within the close by mountains.

Where to eat in Manizales

There are a great deal of worldwide meals locations round Estrella serving stylish meals at very reasonably priced costs. Check out Oryza Food Co, Alchile Taquería, or Callejera Street Food. There can also be a type of hipster meals courtroom at Magnolio Mercado Gastronómico which additionally has a number of bars serving native craft beers.

Salamina

Despite being acknowledged as one of many heritage cities of Colombia, Salamina appears nearly unknown amongst worldwide vacationers. It takes 3 hours to get to Salamina from Manizales; as a result of it’s a bit out of the best way it isn’t touristy within the slightest.

If you get pleasure from straying off the same old path and admire the authenticity, then Salamina is likely one of the most charming stops within the Zona Cafetera. (It might be tied with Jerico as my private favorites.)

While Salamina itself is pretty low-key, there’s one main attraction close by: the Valle de la Samaria. Much just like the vacationer scorching spot of Valle del Cocora close to Salento, you possibly can see towering wax palm bushes on this valley, a few of that are recognized to be among the many tallest palm bushes on the earth. The solely distinction is that in Valle de la Samaria you might be nearly alone.

I’ve shared far more details about the way to get to Salamina and the valley in my publish about alternatives to Salento. It takes a little bit of effort to get to, nevertheless it’s properly price it.

What to do in Salamina

Part of the attraction is simply to observe native life, perhaps go on a hike across the city, and go to the native outlets. Then hop on a jeep to the village of San Felix and hike across the Valle de la Samaria.

Where to remain in Salamina

Bonsai Casa Hotel is the primary budget-friendly backpacker lodge. For a extra upscale boutique possibility, try both La Estancia or Hotel Boutique La Leyenda 1860. These nonetheless provide implausible offers and worth for cash. If you wish to keep contained in the valley, the best choice is Eco Hotel Valle de la Samaria — I stayed there and it’s a really particular place!

Where to eat in Salamina

Lola Gourmet on the primary sq. does a really good set meal.

Filandia

The small city of Salento is the largest vacationer vacation spot in Colombia’s espresso zone, however because it’s been getting overcrowded lately, the close by city of Filandia has been getting among the overflow. I adore it as an alternative to Salento — it’s extra relaxed, however nonetheless vigorous sufficient to decide on it as your base on this space.

The colourful colonial city of Filandia sits atop a hill overlooking the rolling inexperienced hills of the espresso area. Coffee farmers and ranchers are its most important inhabitants, nevertheless it’s additionally tourist-friendly with stylish eating places round the primary sq., quite a lot of hostels and small motels, and loads of enjoyable actions within the space.

What to do in Filandia

Visit close by espresso farms, mountain bike to the city of Quimbaya, hike to hidden waterfalls or go to the Barbas-Bremen reserve the place you possibly can spot howler monkeys. Take a day to see the gorgeous palm bushes in Cocora Valley.

Where to remain in Filandia

I used to be on a finances and stayed at Bidea Hostel, a considerably labyrinthine but cozy hostel with an amazing ambiance. For slightly extra upscale lodging, I counsel the boutique lodge El Reloj Casa. Outside of city and among the many espresso fields, it’s also possible to discover a ravishing Selina hostel on the location of a former espresso farm that gives the whole lot from bungalows to glamping to lodge rooms.

Where to eat in Filandia

A string of eating places on the north aspect affords gorgeous sundown views of the panorama along with some wonderful meals — specifically, don’t miss Helena Adentro or Cultivar.

Pijao

The mountain city of Pijao was my final cease on this journey; it was a last-minute addition primarily based on the advice of a buddy. Located south of Armenia, it’s one other extremely genuine and quiet vacation spot, just like Jerico or Salamina.

The city’s identify won’t appear Spanish and that’s as a result of it refers back to the indigenous Pijao those who had been residing within the present-day division of Tolima, Colombia.

It’s a really peaceable city with barely any overseas vacationers, greatest appreciated when you’re searching for a easy place surrounded by inexperienced mountains. You can both keep within the city itself or go for one of many fincas (transformed farms) or eco-cabañas on the close by slopes.

Pijao is perhaps placed on the journey map a bit extra sooner or later. I’ve heard rumors that Selina is planning to open a hostel/lodge there, which can little doubt appeal to just a few extra travellers and digital nomads to this glorious little place.

What to do in Pijao

There are a number of mountain hikes you are able to do within the space. Ask regionally for the place the trailheads are. Use apps like MAPS.me or Alltrails that will help you discover the best way; there are indicators however not that many. I did a beautiful day hike alongside the river. You may go up the mountain to the Páramo de Chili — an amazing alternative to see any such ecosystem in a self-guided means. This wonderful weblog on Pijao has extra options and I heard some nice issues concerning the Wakecup Coffee Tour in Pijao (which I sadly needed to miss).

Where to remain in Pijao

I stayed in Casa Victoria which was simply pleasant. It has some very good rooms and a really pleasant and welcoming proprietor. The terrace looking in the direction of the river permits you to swing in a hammock or chat with different visitors. The proprietor can present a number of details about mountaineering trails and different actions.

Where to eat in Pijao

For nice lunch set meals go to the meals stalls situated behind the primary plaza on the aspect of the river. Cafe Montanero does good Colombian dinners and for excellent espresso make sure to go to La Floresta.