There are highly effective distractions when sampling wine at The Canyon, the seductive wave-shaped black timber tasting room at Tarras Vineyards. While savouring its award-winning pinot noir, admire how its curves echo the backdrop of the muscular Central Otago mountains, framing a large inexperienced canyon beneath. And then mirror on how the wine in your glass can also be a liquid window into inspirational indigenous values.
Tarras is a founding member of TUKU, the world’s first Maori winemakers collective, whose ethos weaves an underlay of historic native values about land, household and hospitality into the method of constructing ravishing wine in ravishing landscapes.
“For me, what we call kaitiakitanga comes first – caring for land, people and culture with a long-term, intergenerational mindset,” explains Tarras proprietor Hayden Johnston. A member of the Ngai Tahu iwi (tribe), Hayden additionally pays homage to his Nineteenth-century Maori great-grandmother Kuru Kuru – not solely in giving her title to his wine model, however emblazoning every bottle along with her ancestral moko kauae, the mark carved on her chin to sign her revered place in Maori society.
The TUKU collective was based in 2018, and brings collectively Maori-owned vineyards working with premium grape varietals in famend wine areas. Tarras can also be near atmospheric outdated Otago gold mining cities comparable to Cromwell and Clyde, in addition to vacationer beacons like Queenstown.
Johnston remembers the second that set him on a brand new path with Tarras. “I set up the vineyard in 2002 and followed conventional advice, which saw me controlling the growth of weeds using glyphosate. It was only in 2008 when walking through the vineyard that I suddenly felt the impact of this intervention on the whenua – this beautiful, precious land we are taking care of. It didn’t smell right, it didn’t sound right,” he says. “The next day we moved to organic farming practices. Life came flooding back into the vineyard. It smelt like nature again, the sound of thousands of insects doing their thing came back.”
Hayden has taken these ideas of sustainability into the Canyon by constructing its bar from recycled pallets and making a pure wastewater system. Back amid the vines, the soil is nourished utilizing compost created from the vineyard’s natural waste.
Forging shut connections
In North Canterbury – 300km north of Tarras, simply east of Christchurch – Sue McKean is one other TUKU pioneer, working alongside her accomplice Royce at Tiki Vineyards. The TIKI title was impressed by Royce’s great-great-great grandfather: Ngatiuenuku chief Tikitere Mihi. Set between the forested and trail-laced foothills of the Southern Alps and the town choices of Christchurch, Tiki performs an lively function within the thriving food and drinks scene of this close-knit winemaking area. Though the winery doesn’t but have a tasting room, they maintain tastings throughout New Zealand and overseas (as far afield as London), in addition to showing at occasions just like the North Canterbury Wine and Food Festival.
“The Maori values the TUKU collective put together distinguish the group from their peers,” says McKean. Alongside the guardianship function of kaitiakitanga highlighted by Hayden Johnston, she harassed whanaungatanga – shut connection between folks – in addition to the Maori dedication to hospitality often called manaakitanga.
A shared heritage
To the north of Christchurch, Haysley MacDonald – whose tribal affiliations embody each Ngāi Tahu and Ngāti Rārua – champions TUKU’s ideas at Te Pa Vineyards within the coronary heart of the famend Marlborough wine-growing area on the high of the South Island. MacDonald highlights the advantages TUKU has introduced by making a Maori group (whanau) throughout the New Zealand wine business “to elevate the profile and mana (prestige/authority) of indigenous producers”.
“We do that by way of storytelling, advocacy, supporting one another and sharing information, and by offering knowledgeable commentary on topical points that influence the wine business, comparable to the usage of Māori logos, icons, names, and ideas within the wine world.
He gives up an instance of the latter. “It’s been heartening to see more awareness around the parallels and differences between the traditional fine wine concept of terroir, and the powerful Maori concept of tūrangawaewae, which can be understood as ‘a place to stand’.” The French phrase terroir captures what some have referred to as ‘somewhereness’ – a novel sense of a spot conjured by tasting a wine. For TUKU’s wines, this may embody the resonances that come from the perfumed marvel of Otago pinot noir at Tarras, or the plush fruitiness of Chardonnay from Tiki.
“What makes TUKU unique is that we’re bound together by shared whakapapa (Māori heritage) and shared values.”
TUKU is trying to lengthen its ethos past New Zealand’s shores. “In the future we hope to connect with other indigenous wine producers and collectives from around the world, to create and share new knowledge and practices in doing so,” he says. For now, TUKU wines are spreading their ethos at bars and eating places throughout New Zealand, taking in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, plus vacationer beacons like Queenstown, the whale watching hotspot of Kaikoura and inexperienced shell mussel “capital” Havelock. The wines are additionally exported in small – however rising – quantities to the UK, the US, Japan, Hong Kong, China, Australia and Southeast Asia.
MacDonald says, “There’s never been more interest and demand for authenticity and provenance when it comes to wine, so we are excited and enthused to advocate for and elevate the reputation and protection of indigenous producers and our cultural taonga (treasure).”
TUKU collective wines will function at Tohunga Tūmau, an annual celebration of Maori food and drinks expertise going down this yr on 13 July in Christchurch.
3 Tuku wines to purchase
Tarras The Canyon Pinot Noir 2019
A thrillingly advanced wine that has garnered rave critiques. The tasting notes embody intriguing flavours comparable to darkish cherry, tapenade, smoked recreation and truffle.
Tiki Vineyard Pinot Noir Rosé 2022
Light with refreshing acidity. Savour pink apple and apricot notes with lemon zest and candy strawberry aromas within the newest within the winery’s line of award-winning roses.
Te Pa 2020 Chardonnay
This expression of a basic New Zealand grape scooped the Champion White Wine award – and a 96 level rating – on the New World Wine Awards. It is a vibrant and fragrant wine, with flavours of stone fruit, florals and toasted nuts.
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