It may be exhausting to tear your self away from a day in Croatia’s Dubrovnik — strolling atop its medieval wall, sipping a beer at a sidewalk café, admiring the hilly city, clad in marble. Fortunately, on our name at Dubrovnik, a part of Windstar’s “locals” season itinerary, we had a day and a half to spend right here, which gave us time to discover farther afield.Learning about, and cooking, native meals (and in our case indulging in handmade grappa and wine, too) opens up the soul of a spot whether or not it’s an indication, a working session, or a bite-sampling — or all three. On “Cooking Lunch with Locals at Miloslavić Family Home,” the sum of its components was approach higher than even that.
What made this probably the most particular culinary excursions I’ve ever taken wasn’t a lot about studying easy methods to cook dinner genuine Croatian peka — meat and potatoes in a pot with a bell-shaped lid — together with vegetable risotto and apple strudel. It was additionally about spending time with Pero and Marija Miloslavić, whose household has lived within the space for over 500 years. They are elevating their 4 daughters right here, and their house is adjoining to a reasonably newly constructed taverna, full with an indication kitchen. In addition to internet hosting Windstar friends, they function a small restaurant (reservations solely) and even host Croatians who wish to get pleasure from a conventional peka with out making it themselves. (It can take hours to organize.)
If the Miloslavićs’ peka is sweet sufficient for locals, I knew we’d get pleasure from it too.
And but, it wasn’t simply the normal dishes, all made with elements from their very own and neighboring farms, that stayed with me, lengthy after we’d returned to Star Legend. It was the household’s heat and hospitality, which we started to expertise as quickly because the minibus pulled up carrying eight of us from Windstar. A bar cart awaited us within the entry, full of grappa, a kind of brandy, with variously flavored variations, all made by Marija from elements from her backyard.
Marija poured everybody a style in a shot glass and mentioned, “After this, make yourself at home,” and so we did. Big hits had been the walnut, blood orange, cherry and apricot, however a few of us made a degree of making an attempt all dozen or so flavors. It’s potent stuff, and the bar cart was additionally stocked with water and juice.
“Our inspiration comes from our passion for tradition and the place where we live,” Marija tells me. “When you go to Dubrovnik, to actually expertise it, it’s good to discover the countryside, meet the locals, and check out the native delicacies. Fruit and vegetable are ecologically grown in our backyard, meals is do-it-yourself. This makes for the very best expertise. We wish to invite everybody who’s in search of a novel place that appears like visiting household.
“Our place is always here to come back to.”
Feeling, certainly, so welcome and so snug of their dwelling solid a golden glow that threaded the expertise.
What to anticipate
Including our 30-minute drive every approach, “Cooking Lunch with Locals at Miloslavić Family Home,” lasted about six hours. The drive itself, a lot of it on winding, mountainous and sea-facing roads, jogged my memory of the French Riviera’s scenic Corniche routes.
Once within the village of Mlini, you’ll meet the resident horse and admire — even in winter, after we visited, although the tour is offered year-round — Marija’s attractive herb and vegetable backyard, small winery, olive bushes, and pines with branches that sing when the wind blows. She grows most of what she prepares.
Inside, Marija and Pero had arrange workstations and all of us donned aprons. We grated and chopped, sipped grappa and stirred and peeled. There was room for all of us to contribute and likewise no stress, both. Some of us labored more durable than others, laughing.
The fundamental occasion was the preparation of the peka, a dish sometimes served when households have a good time time collectively. In our case, it was a easy preparation of potatoes and big hunks of veal and lamb, procured from a farm down the street. What was compelling was the best way it was cooked, like nothing I’ve ever seen within the U.S. Pero had already constructed a small wooden hearth on a steel cooking desk outdoors the taverna. The hearth heated the floor, and he moved the wooden over to a different a part of the island, setting a large stockpot of the meat, with potatoes on high, then masking the pot with a bell-shaped cast-iron lid. The lid was so heavy he used a steel hook to place it on the pot and take it off. He then encased the lid with scorching embers and ashes from the hearth, which labored to seal within the taste.
And we left it to cook dinner. It takes about two hours or so, and Marija and Pero had deliberate sufficient exercise to occupy us within the meantime. We made the aforementioned vegetable risotto and apple strudel. And from time to time, on this pretty late winter Mediterranean day, I’d wander outdoors to benefit from the view from the farm, which is surrounded by lush inexperienced hills and mountains dotted with quarries the place the golden limestone that Croatia’s well-known for was excavated.
Sitting all the way down to peka and the remainder of our meal was absolutely the spotlight of the day. And that’s consistent with Croatian custom, we discovered from Croatia Honestly’s weblog:
“Reserve it for feasts and vital rites of passage. Think the Assumption of Mary, a christening or affirmation, a marriage. Whenever you eat peka, pay utmost respect for the elements.
“After all, peka is never about food alone. Use the ritual of eating peka to celebrate and to give thanks to life. Most of all, get together with your loved ones and enjoy the feast.”
If all of us — Windstar friends, the Miloslavić household — initially gathered as strangers, we departed as pals. Which is what the custom of peka is all about.
Inside Tips
- Don’t eat an enormous breakfast as a result of regardless that the meal gained’t be served for just a few hours after you arrive, there’s pretty Croatian pastry and different snacks. And don’t plan on a particular dinner onboard that night. The lunch is so substantial you most likely gained’t really feel all that hungry.
- Dress for consolation: Loose, relaxed clothes, and simple sneakers. You’ll be in your toes quite a bit.
- Ask a lot of questions on the whole lot from meals to household; the Miloslavićs, whose 4 daughters additionally reside within the farmhouse (one was available all through the day to assist the cooking and cleansing effort) like to reply them (Marija is extra fluent in English than Pero and Pero is the grasp chef).
- We had been served each peka, a roasted meat and potato dish, and vegetarian risotto. If you might have particular dietary necessities, please alert your shore tour crew onboard beforehand.
About your go to to Dubrovnik
Many Adriatic cruises on Windstar name at Dubrovnik for a day and a half, which suggests there’s loads of time for various experiences. During my locals’ season voyage in January, the shore excursions included each outdoor-oriented (strolling the wall, exploring the medieval metropolis) and indoor-focused (wine tastings and our cooking class). Another tour on our go to was referred to as “Traditional Dubrovnik.” Dining companions that night time completely raved about that one, too, significantly having fun with insights into the normal Croatian technique of creating silk.
In spring, summer season and fall, search for extra choices for nature-oriented outings.
We docked at Gruz, the first harbor for cruise ships. Aside from our shore tour, a shuttle between the port and downtown’s previous metropolis was offered; it’s a few 10-minute drive (and a reasonably lengthy stroll, so except you might have a ton of time, you’re higher off getting a journey). Dubrovnik had loads of cabs (about 15 euro) and likewise has Uber.
Speaking of euro, Croatia adopted that foreign money in 2023, changing its personal kuna.