Hiking within the Heart of Troll Country

The Trollheimen Mountains of central Norway are one of many nation’s most numerous mountain ranges. Located within the transition zone between marine and alpine environments, Trollheimen options historic woodlands, lush river valleys, crystal-clear mountain lakes, and jagged rocky peaks. Complementing the pure wonders is a wealthy and various human historical past. From Stone Age settlements to Iron Age burial websites to characterful turf-roof farmhouses, Trollheimen has a millennia-spanning fusion of environmental, cultural, and historic parts that’s all its personal.

From a climbing perspective, Trollheimen stays comparatively unknown exterior the Norwegian outside group. An under-the-radar gem whose identify interprets to “home of the trolls,” an evocative moniker that was coined within the latter a part of the nineteenth century as a solution to drum up vacationer curiosity within the area (apparently with middling worldwide outcomes). I visited Trollheimen within the fall of 2022 as a part of an prolonged journey to the Nordic area. During the journey, I did a collection of shorter hikes—together with the Trollheimen Triangle—which ended up being included in my guide Wanderlust Nordics: Exploring Trails in Scandinavia (2023). The article under contains images, fundamental trekking notes, together with logistical and GPS info.

The Litlsvartaa River in Svartådalen Valley.

At a Glance:

Distance: 58 km (36 mi)

Duration: 2-3 days

Difficulty Level:  Moderate

Total Elevation Gain: 2,720 m (8,924 ft)

Start/Finish: Gjevilvasshytta mountain hut

Crossing the Minnilla River.

Highlights:

• The attractive surroundings and autumnal shades of Svartådalen Valley.

• The tarn-dotted Mellomfjellet Plateau.

• Picturesque lakes on both aspect of Riarskaret Pass.

• Abundant berry foraging alternatives from mid to late summer season. Also, on the culinary entrance, the path’s historic mountain huts have a long-established repute for serving glorious native delicacies.

Kamtjonnin Lake

Planning Information:

• Getting There & Away: During summer season, a periodic bus service runs between Gjevilvasshytta Hut and the close by city of Oppdal (23 km/14.3 mi away). If you might be coming by non-public transport, parking is accessible each on the trailhead and the alternate car parking zone, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) away to the northwest.

• Season: Mid-June to late September

• Permits & Fees: No on each counts.

• Guidebook: Ute Koninx’s Hiking in Norway – South: The 10 Best Multi-Day Treks (Cicerone Press) gives an in depth abstract of the path, together with trekking notes, fundamental maps, aspect journey recommendations, distance and time estimates, and logistical info. The guide is accessible in Kindle or paperback.

• Looking for Something Longer?: Unfortunately, time was not on my aspect after I visited Trollheimen. With a couple of additional days up my sleeve, I might have appreciated to have hiked the Trollheimen SignaTur, a 152 km (94.5 mi) loop across the area. Koninx’s Cicerone Press guidebook has an in depth description of the route.

GaiaGPS Overview Map of the Trollheimen Triangle.

• Water: H2O is plentiful all through the path. Many hikers select to filter, although water in Trollheimen is often thought-about secure to drink when taken from fast-flowing streams.

• Food: You can both convey your individual provides, purchase on the huts, or take a hybrid strategy. Note that in the event you’re climbing out of season, the huts could also be closed, and also you’ll need to convey all provisions with you (which was the case after I hiked in late September 2022).

Gjevilvasshytta Hut – The beginning and ending level of the Trollheimen Triangle.

• Recommended Pre or Post-Trip Excursion: Vang Burial Site: Located on the outskirts of Oppdal, round 20 minutes drive from the start of the Trollheimen Triangle, Gravfeltet Vang (Vang Burial Site) is the biggest Iron Age Burial web site in Norway and one of many largest in northern Europe. The web site consists of greater than 900 burial mounds, most of that are from the Viking Age (750 A.D. – 1050 A.D.), however a few of which date again to the early a part of the Migration Period (300 A.D. – 700 A.D.). The measurement of the mounds ranges from 3 m to 17 m (10’ – 56’) in diameter, and excavations have found a variety of things, together with swords, jewellery, and different decorative objects. The unearthed artifacts derive not solely from the Nordic area however from locations as far afield because the British Isles and southern Europe, proof of the widespread commerce connections that existed relationship again to medieval occasions. The Vang Burial Site is free to go to and consists of quite a few interconnected strolling trails dotted with usually spaced info boards (in Norwegian and English). 

Vang Burial Site is situated on the crossroads of historic commerce routes, linking collectively Sunndalen and the Møre coast to the west, Trondheim Fjord to the north, and the Dovrefjell crossing within the south.

Woolly guardians of historic treasures

Accommodation:

• Wild tenting is feasible all through the Trollheimen Triangle. 

• There are three full-service mountain huts (clockwise) alongside the path: Gjevilvasshytta, Trollheimshytta, and Jøldalshytta. Hut areas needs to be booked effectively prematurely through the peak summer season season in July and August.

Campsite close to the headwaters of the Gjørdøldalen Valley (Shelter pictured is the Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid).

Trail Notes:

The Trollheimen Triangle begins and ends on the historic mountain hut of Gjevilvasshytta (est. 1819), situated a 30-minute drive from the regional hub of Oppdal. Walking in a counter-clockwise course, the primary stage to Jøldalshytta Hut extends for 21 km (13 mi) and takes a median of 5 to seven hours to finish. Setting out from Gjevilvasshytta, the trail winds its approach up by means of the birch forest of Gjørdøldalen Valley, rising above treeline after 5 kilometers (3.1 mi).

Turf-roofed cottage close to Gjevilvasshytta Hut.

The path then crosses a large saddle, passing beneath Høghøa Peak (1,308 m/4,291 ft) because it descends steadily into the marshy, lake-dotted Høghødalen Valley. At the 11 km (6.8 mi) mark, you’ll attain a footbridge over the Minnilla River earlier than persevering with northwards over rolling fells to Skrikhøa Peak (1,061 m/3,481 ft). From right here, you’ll be afforded far-reaching views over the Gammelsæterdalen Valley, in the direction of which the path continues its lengthy and largely gradual descent to Jøldalshytta Hut, fantastically located overlooking Jølvatnet Lake.

Crossing the wind/rain-swept saddle near Høghøa.

Footbridge over the Minnilla River.

Jøldalshytta Hut (photograph taken early the next morning, throughout an all-too-brief window of sunshine).

The second stage to Trollheimshytta Hut gives hikers three alternate routes. If situations are clear(ish), it’s arduous to go previous the excessive traverses over Geithøtta Top (1,316 m/4,318 ft) or Trollhetta (1,616 m/5,302 ft). The third route is a 16 km (9.9 mi) primarily low-level affair that traces the course of the Svartåa River. With heavy rain on the playing cards, I opted for the latter possibility. It ended up being a beautiful valley stroll, resplendent with storybook bridges, luxuriant meadows, charming turf-roofed cottages, and peak fall foliage. 

Trollheimshytta Hut is situated within the coronary heart of “troll country.” When I arrived, it was closed for the season, however the adjoining day/emergency shelter was open and supplied welcome respite from the rain.

Enjoying a protracted (and dry) lunch within the Trollheimshytta day shelter.

The third and last stage of the journey measures 21 km (13 mi) and is the hardest of the path’s trio of sections. Leaving Trollheimshytta Hut, you’ll quickly cross a footbridge over the Slettåa River earlier than commencing a protracted and steep climb.

Zig-zagging up by means of a collection of rocky terraces, the path features round 700 m (2,297 ft) in elevation over the course of the next three kilometers (1.9 mi). After some huffing and puffing, you’ll prime out at Skallen Peak (1,226 m/4,022 ft). In nice climate (I’ve heard), your efforts will probably be rewarded with gorgeous vistas over the rivers, lakes, and woodlands of Svartåmoen Nature Reserve. In chilly, wet, windy, and cloudy situations, I had an ironic chuckle, wolfed down some chocolate, placed on an additional layer, and stored shifting.

Departing Skallen, proceed south over Mellomfjellet, a rocky, tarn-peppered plateau that feels a world away from the forested environs of Trollheimshytta and the Svartådalen Valley. About an hour from Skallen, you’ll arrive at Fossådalsvatnet Lake.

Fossådalsvatnet Lake

Skirt its japanese shore and climb steeply as much as Riarskaret Pass (1,307 m/4,288 ft), which is the very best level of the stage. From Riarskaret, descend by means of a treeless panorama, passing the roundish Kamtjønnin Lake earlier than rising into the expansive Gjørdøldalen Valley.

Kamtjønnin Lake

Gjørdøldalen Valley

After strolling many of the day in chilly, moist, and windy situations, there aren’t many issues higher than a sizzling meal, adopted by crawling into your dry sleeping bag/quilt and drifting off to the land of Nod accompanied by Mother Nature’s pitter patter soundtrack.

The following morning, I awoke to blue skies. From my campsite, the path contoured across the edges of Gjørdøldalen’s boggy ground earlier than reaching a footbridge over the river Gravbekke.

Taking a pointy flip to the south, the path parallels the Gravbekke for a lot of the next 5 kilometers (3.1 mi). Along the best way, hikers are afforded attractive views over the expansive Gjevillvatnet Lake. Eventually, you’ll attain the street on the alternate car parking zone, from the place it’s an extra 1.5 km (0.9 mi) again to the Gjevilvassyttha trailhead. 

Post-hike meal and drying out session.

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