With a touch of regret I left Mt Bromo for the next stage of the photography tour. I wished I could have spend more time at Mt Bromo for a more in depth exploration of Mt Bromo’s crater, Tengger Caldera and the Sand Sea. As the journey continued, winding mountain roads and misty views gave way to emerald green padi fields as we descended the slopes of Mt Bromo and headed eastwards towards Banyuwangi town on the east coast of Java.
The highway soon narrowed into a one lane main road where our minivan often found itself trailing behind trucks and other cargo vehicles. For the uninitiated, overtaking slower traffic on Indonesian roads is an intricate and often perilous dance, with drivers weaving in and out on both left and right sides of a single lane. Oncoming vehicles can pass within inches of each other as drivers swerved and maneuver to avoid a head on collision.
After a long, and at times adrenaline pumping ride of several hours, we soon found ourselves in Banyuwangi town, checked into our hotel and prepared ourselves for the dawn visit to Kawah Ijen. Banyuwangi serves as the gateway to Ijen volcano where visitors come to marvel at the Blue Flames. However, nature had other plans as our excitement soon turned into disappointment, when we arrived at Ijen’s main ticketing entrance at 1.30 am to find that it was raining heavily and the area totally drenched. In the interest of safety, we made the difficult decision to abandon our visit.
The trek to Ijen’s summit is anything but easy, and from the crater’s rim, a hazardous descent leads down to the crater and acid lake where the Blue Flames can be witnessed. The rain had turned the path muddy and perilously slippery, amplifying the risks. This was also a week after the death of a Brazilian tourist on Mt Rinjani who had fallen off the trail, so we were not taking any chances. The only comfort was that we got back safely to our hotel and caught up on our sleep.
With some time to kill since the visit to Ijen was cut short, we decided to explore the surrounding padi fields near our hotel.
Beyond the tranquil charm of small town life, the people of Banyuwangi radiate a warmth and friendliness that I found both inviting and welcoming.
From Banyuwangi, we made a visit to an ancient forest of giant Trembesi trees. Called De Djawatan Benculuk in the local language, this is a rather small patch of forest that covers around 6 hectares. But once you are inside, it feels like you’ve been transported into a primeval world reminiscent of Lord of the Rings or Jurassic Park.
Rounding out our visit to East Java was a visit to a village located in the north east next to Baluran National Park. Named Sidomulyo, this is one of several villages just off the main highway and offers a living showcase of Osing heritage and agrarian life. As evening fell, we witnessed the rhythm of rural life; evening prayers played over loud speakers, kids played and women washed clothes in the irrigation canals.
Though the Blue Flames of Ijen eluded me, East Java delivered unforgettable encounters at every bend of the road. From majestic volcanoes to padi field tranquility, mossy ancient forests, and the warm smiles of the locals, this journey was a reminder to enjoy the beauty of the unexpected, to embrace each detour, and to savor the genuine moments that travel so often brings.