It’s happening. Right now. This very week. The 76th Sanremo Music Festival kicked off on February 24, and the City of Flowers has transformed into the City of Feather Boas, Cigarette Smoke, and Passionate Arguments About Who Should Win . If you’re not here yet, what are you waiting for? A bus? A plane? A sign from the universe? Consider this your sign.
Sanremo during Festival week isn’t a city. It’s a fever dream. It’s 75,000 people crammed into a town that usually hosts half that, all united by one thing: the belief that their favorite song deserves to win and everyone else is clearly tone-deaf . The Ariston Theatre is the holy grail, but the real action spills out into every piazza, every bar, and every sidewalk where someone with a guitar might spontaneously break into song.
I’ve spent the last 48 hours mainlining espresso, dodging camera crews, and eating my weight in Ligurian seafood. Here’s everything you need to know to survive and thrive during the most magical, chaotic week in Italian entertainment.
First, The Festival Itself: What’s Actually Happening?
Let’s get the basics down. Sanremo 2026 runs from Tuesday, February 24 through Saturday, February 28 . Thirty “Big” artists are competing, plus four “Nuove Proposte” (newcomers) fighting for their moment in the spotlight. Carlo Conti is hosting, joined each night by a rotating cast of co-hosts that reads like a who’s-who of Italian cool: Laura Pausini, Can Yaman, Pilar Fogliati, Achille Lauro, and Lillo .
The Night-by-Night Breakdown:
Pro Tip: Friday’s Cover Night is often the most fun. Artists let their hair down, sing songs they actually love, and the collaborations are wild. This year, Fedez and Marco Masini are doing “Meravigliosa creatura” with cellist Stjepan Hauser, Elettra Lamborghini is bringing Las Ketchup for “Aserejé” (yes, that “Aserejé”), and J-Ax is reuniting with his crew for “E la vita, la vita” . It’s musical chaos in the best way.
Where to Watch (If You Don’t Have Ariston Tickets)
Let’s address the elephant in the room. Getting into the Ariston during Festival week is harder than getting a reservation at a Michelin-starred restaurant on Valentine’s Day. But here’s the secret: you don’t need to be inside.
Piazza Colombo is where the city gathers. Every night, there’s a Suzuki Stage with live performances from major artists. Gaia performed on Night 1, Bresh is on Night 2, The Kolors on Night 3, Francesco Gabbani on Night 4 . Giant screens broadcast the Ariston action, and the crowd energy is infectious. Bring a jacket, find a spot, and prepare to cheer with strangers who will become friends by the end of the night.
Bars along Corso Matteotti become viewing parties. Every TV is tuned to Rai 1. Every table has an opinion. Order a spritz, pick a side, and get ready to argue passionately about whether Fedez and Masini’s “Male necessario” deserves its spot in the top five.
The Floating Stage on Costa Toscana is hosting Max Pezzali for the entire festival . Yes, a floating stage. Because Sanremo doesn’t do things by half measures.
Where to Eat During the Madness
Here’s the thing about Festival week: restaurants are packed, but they’re also at their absolute best. Everyone’s showing off. Here’s where to go.
The Festival Icons
La Pignese – This place is an institution. Tucked near the Old Port, it’s been beloved by artists and celebrities for decades . The cellar is ancient stone walls lined with prestigious vintages, perfect for escaping the chaos. The cuisine is pure Liguria: land and sea, tradition and authenticity. If you want to spot someone famous, eat here .
Rêve Bistrot – Inside the Europa Palace Hotel, this is where elegance meets the Festival. Chef Alessandro Schiavon does creative things with local ingredients, and at night it transforms into a party with Thursday Jazz Nights and Music Saturdays . Book ahead. Way ahead.
The Hidden Gems
Mille806 – This place has a 9.6 rating on TheFork and the reviews are almost comically enthusiastic . “If you are food and drink freak you just must go there,” says one reviewer. The cocktails are legendary, the food is “innovative with a mix of different styles,” and the vibe is “swanky and cozy” . The owner replies to reviews with heart emojis and promises to save tables for returning guests. This is the kind of place that makes you want to move to Sanremo.
Victory Morgana Bay – Like an elegant yacht moored between the two ports, this spot has spectacular sea views . Fresh fish, fabulous sushi, and iconic cocktails. Sunset aperitifs here are a religious experience.
Baccarà Bistrot Bello – British fabrics, floral wallpaper, and exotic details set the scene for a light, creative take on Italian cuisine . The cocktail menu ranges from classics to signature creations. It’s eclectic, it’s fun, it’s exactly what Festival week needs.
The Classics
Ristorante Mare Blu – Vaulted ceilings, old-style light fixtures, timeless atmosphere . Seafood is the specialty, but the pizzas are meticulously crafted too.
Ristorante Flipper – The freshest fish in town. Don’t miss the raw Sanremo red prawns and brandacujùn (traditional creamed salt cod) . This is a place that celebrates the sea with genuine passion.
Salsadrena – Right on the water, this spot gets mixed reviews but loyal fans. The gluten-free pasta and pizza are apparently excellent, and the house rosé is inexpensive and refreshing . The patio view is fantastic, and the location couldn’t be more convenient.
What to Do When Your Ears Need a Break
Between the constant music and the endless conversations about who should win, you might need a moment of peace. Sanremo delivers.
Climb to La Pigna
The historic center, nicknamed “la Pigna” (the pinecone) for its shape, is a maze of medieval alleyways that wrap around the hillside . Wander up through the carrugi (narrow lanes), past the Chiesa di San Sebastiano and Piazza D’Ori. The higher you climb, the quieter it gets.
At the top, the Santuario della Madonna della Costa rewards your effort with views over the harbor and rooftops that will make you forget the crowds below . The sound of water trickling over rocky basins, the scent of pine and cedar, the sea framed by the bay – this is Sanremo’s secret heart.
Walk the Passeggiata
The seaside promenade is lined with palm trees and Belle Époque villas . Start at the casino, wander past the public gardens, and just breathe. During Festival week, it’s also where you’ll spot artists taking phone calls, smoking nervously, or being interviewed by crews from across Europe.
Visit Villa Nobel
Alfred Nobel spent his last years here, calling it “my nest” . He died here in 1896, and legend has it he conceived the Nobel Prize within these walls . The villa now houses exhibits on the scientist and his inventions, and the garden is worth the trip alone.
The Casino
Even if gambling isn’t your thing, the Casinò Municipale is worth a visit for the architecture alone . Designed by French architect Eugène Ferret in 1905, it’s a masterpiece of Liberty style (Italian Art Nouveau). Murano glass chandeliers, oriental paintings, a 16th-century room with an ornate wooden coffered ceiling – this is where the Festival was born, hosted here for its first 26 years .
Practical Survival Tips for Festival Week
Book Everything Yesterday – Hotels have been full for months. If you haven’t booked, consider staying in nearby towns. The train from Ventimiglia or Imperia is easy, and Monaco is about an hour away by car .
- Train: Regional trains from Monaco/Nice to Ventimiglia, then change for Sanremo (2-3 hours total). Book tickets in advance during Festival week.
- Car: A8/E80 motorway to Ventimiglia, then coastal road (1.5-2 hours from Monaco). Traffic gets heavy during evening showtimes.
- Bus: Cheaper but slower (3-4 hours). Good for budget travelers.
- Private transfer: The VIP move. Direct to the Ariston, no stress.
Dress for Drama – Italians dress up for Sanremo. This is not the time for sweatpants. Pack your sharpest coat, your best boots, and something with sequins if you’re feeling brave. You’ll see everything from elegant evening wear to full-on festival glam.
Learn the Songs – Before you go, YouTube the competing songs. Nothing bonds you with locals faster than being able to hum along to “Magica favola” by Arisa or having an opinion on whether Fedez and Masini’s collaboration actually works .
Cash is Still King – Small bars and food stalls might not take cards. Keep euros handy.
Patience, Grasshopper – Service slows down during Festival week. Everyone’s overwhelmed. That’s part of the charm. Order another spritz, make friends with the table next to you, and embrace the chaos.
The Bottom Line
Sanremo during Festival week is unlike anything else in Europe. It’s part musical competition, part national conversation, part massive street party. The city vibrates with an energy that’s impossible to describe – you just have to feel it.
Walk through Piazza Colombo at midnight, when the evening’s results are being debated by hundreds of strangers united by passion. Stand outside the Ariston as the artists arrive, cameras flashing, fans screaming, the whole spectacle playing out under those famous theater lights. Eat pasta at 2 AM in a packed trattoria where the table next to you is arguing about whether the cover night should count toward the final score.
This is Italy at its most Italian. Dramatic. Musical. Delicious. And absolutely, gloriously extra.
Viva Sanremo. Viva la musica. And for heaven’s sake, try the trofie al pesto.
BY SIMONA GIRA