Navigating the Western Balkans as a queer traveller

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Navigating the Western Balkans as a queer traveller


The Balkans is a lovely – however difficult – a part of the world. Blogger Chantel Loura (aka Voyaging Vagabond) shares her experiences as an LGBTQ+ traveller, what to anticipate and methods to get essentially the most out of your adventures.

I began travelling to the Balkans in 2015 and have been throughout; Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Kosovo. I’m by no means in a position to keep away for too lengthy. The pristine shoreline and fewer frequented pure wonders at all times name me again.

From island hopping in Croatia, to waterfall chasing in Bosnia and Herzegovina, sampling raki in Albania, sundown hikes in Montenegro, dancing all evening in Serbia and boating by way of canyons in North Macedonia, the reminiscences I carry from this area are limitless. Here, thoughts blowing, unforgettable journey experiences occur freely and infrequently; the huge, numerous and delightful landscapes provide actions for every kind of travellers on every kind of budgets.

A beautiful view of trees, mountains and a lake in Western Europe

Yet, regardless of my love for this a part of the world, it’s an undeniably difficult area. There are 1000’s of years of historical past nonetheless actively affecting and shaping modern-day politics, tradition, society and even borders. Century-old land claims are nonetheless aggressively contested to today. The geopolitical nature of this area is deeply ingrained in modern-day views and is usually categorised as “uniquely Balkans.”

LGBTQ+ expertise within the Western Balkans

Based on my previous experiences, I really feel accepted and welcomed as a queer traveller. I really feel protected and in a position to be myself in no matter kind which may be. I’ve by no means confronted verbal harassment or the hazard of bodily hurt. But that’s additionally the privilege of travelling as a cis feminine with a cis feminine companion who is usually confused for my sister.

Two smiling women on holiday in Europe

This area is extra conservative than among the LGBTQ+-friendly locations that I’ve visited prior to now. On the floor, it’s simpler to cope with conservative practices once you’re passing by way of a location for a few days. But the expertise for these dwelling in these areas could be very completely different.

Local members of the LGBTQ+ neighborhood have confronted widespread discrimination and abuse. Same intercourse marriage is just not acknowledged in a few of these nations. Advocates within the Western Balkans are pushing ahead insurance policies that empower and defend the LGBTQ+ neighborhood within the face of adversity. Even this 12 months, Belgrade, Serbia’s capital, is because of host Europride 2022 and there was main backlash from the predominantly Orthodox nation.

An old church surrounded by trees

Despite these dangers, advocates refuse to cease preventing for inclusive human rights. It doesn’t deter them and there are companies, protected areas and organisations cropping up all around the space with the intention of bettering the lives of the LGBTQ+ communities inside these nations. As a motion, they concentrate on advocacy and neighborhood areas, self organising and creating grassroots actions. While these efforts and progressive movers and shakers are principally seen in main cities and fewer in smaller villages, their work helps to create a protected house for travellers to return and respect the Balkans. And it’s working. On my current Intrepid journey to 4 Western Balkan nations, nearly all of my group had been a part of the LGBTQ+ neighborhood!

Two women standing on top of a bridge

Safety and cultural customs

This area is predominantly conservative and really binary, nonetheless in main cities like Zagreb, Budva, Dubrovnik and Prishtinë individuals are extra liberal. It’s instructed that you simply practise the identical care and consciousness with regards to security that you’d when travelling to any new location.

Culturally there are nonetheless many closeted members of the LGBTQ+ neighborhood within the Western Balkans, particularly from the older era which lends to difficulties when courting or discovering a way of neighborhood. PDA amongst identical intercourse companions is uncommon and whereas some do practise this, it does include an opportunity of threat.

Social media performs an enormous function for the LGBTQ+ motion right here and the youthful era is hopeful, nicely knowledgeable, vocal and proactive with regards to creating LGBTQ+-friendly areas. If attending any LGBTQ+ occasions, don’t go together with a preconception of queer areas – include respect and an open thoughts.

A red-lit bar with a neon sign above the bar

Be aware that folks at these occasions will not be out to their native communities for worry of discrimination. Avoid exposing folks – ask earlier than taking photographs to publish on-line or tagging in your socials. Part of our accountability as LGBTQ+ people is being empathetic in direction of the security of others inside our neighborhood.

Before you go, learn the information or lookup on-line sources to search out solutions to questions on security, venues, accessibility and LGBTQ+ occasions. Reach out to among the organisations listed by the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association (ILGA). A fast e mail might flip into an trade stuffed with useful recommendation, solutions and even new friendships!

A cliff covered in houses

How to help native LGBTQ+ companies and organisations

While there may be nonetheless loads of work to be achieved, the neighborhood is there and advocates are placing within the onerous work – and you may completely discover methods to help them whereas travelling.

Feminist organisation The Bijat Collective is placing queer events in Prishtinë on the map, making a platform for women and girls who need to DJ or produce music. Their occasions popping up in Kosovo and Albania are devoted to queer tradition and accessibility. They additionally empower others by providing entry to DJ gear and areas for folks to study, freed from cost.

Consider donating to or volunteering at organisations like Streha Center, which helps the emergent wants of the LGBTQ+ youth neighborhood. Services embody provision of protected housing, lodging, psycho-social help, group remedy, profession counselling, negotiation with households and medical and authorized help. Their work provides folks choices so that they don’t have to decide on between protected shelter and being their truest self.

Finding LGBTQ+ nightlife spots may be difficult however not unimaginable. Some are unofficial LGBTQ+-friendly areas like Casper Bar in Budva, whereas others are the primary of their sort, overtly declaring themselves as LGBTQ+ companies like Bubbles in Prishtinë and Milk in Dubrovnik.

An old boat moored under a willow tree

Acknowledgements

I need to thank Amarildo Fecanji, Executive Co-Director at ERA (LGBTI Equal Rights Association for the Western Balkans and Turkey.) ERA is an organisation devoted to the betterment of the LGBTQ+ neighborhood on this area. They have written of their mission assertion:

“We are here to create and provide resources, give a united voice to our common challenges, identify opportunities, respond to threats and build a common platform for advancing our rights.”

Their web site is a wealth of information and a incredible useful resource to realize a greater understanding of the LGBTQ+ expertise within the Western Balkans.

Amarildo was gracious sufficient to just accept my invitation to talk so I might higher educate myself on the native expertise for LGBTQ+ folks on this space. As travellers it’s vital to suppose past the context of our personal visits and contemplate the experiences of folks that dwell in these areas, as a way to paint an correct image and acquire higher understanding. Amarildo’s experience was pivotal within the creation of this text and I worth each little bit of perception he so kindly supplied to me.

I look again fondly on my travels by way of the Western Balkans with my spouse. I keep in mind enriching cultures, late nights, jaw-dropping views, bustling cities, historic must-sees, loud laughter, deep conversations and plenty of meals shared with new pals. This area is ready to be explored and I implore you to take action!

A woman sitting at the front of a boat moving along a river between tree-covered mountains turns and smiles at the camera

If you need to observe Chantel’s adventures, you possibly can try her web site, voyagingvagabond.com or observe her on Instagram @voyaging_vagabond.



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