Exploring Southwest Jeju: from Seogwipo to Sanbangsan

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In my 10 days exploring Jeju, I based mostly myself in several areas of the island so I may higher discover totally different areas with out too lengthy a commute on a regular basis. I spent 3 nights in Seogwipo 서귀포 within the south, and certainly one of my extra intensive itineraries concerned taking public transport to see Seogwipo’s major sights within the southwest and Seogwipo City in barely greater than a day – many of those websites contributed to Jeju’s standing as a UNESCO Global Geopark. Here’s slightly information I put collectively overlaying issues to do in Seogwipo and southwest Jeju and easy methods to get round right here.

Seogwipo technically covers the entire southern half of Jeju together with the well-known Seongsan Ilchulbong dawn peak within the east, however this information covers sights between Sanbangsan within the southwest to Seogwipo City within the centre of the South Coast. I’ll additionally embrace Naver map hyperlinks and transport ideas that can assist you plan your journey.

My Jeju journey

I arrived in Seogwipo within the afternoon and spent my 1st day seeing Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, Jeongbang Waterfall and grabbing meals at Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market within the night. The 2nd day was an intensive journey from Seogwipo City all the way in which to Sanbangsan within the far southwest nook earlier than taking an extended, lengthy bus trip again to Seogwipo City.

Seogwipo City 서귀포시

Seogwipo City is the 2nd largest metropolis after Jeju City within the north, and it’s additionally the place my hostel was positioned. It’s very busy total and feels much more touristy than smaller cities like Aewol and Hallim in northwest Jeju, however like Jeju City, many of the metropolis’s facilities will be discovered right here together with a big night time market and purchasing streets.

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall 천지연폭포

My hostel was positioned proper above the Seogwipo port space, so I used to be inside strolling distance of one of many three major waterfalls in Seogwipo referred to as Cheonjiyeon Waterfall. It’s positioned in a park that you want to pay a small price to enter, and within the late afternoon there have been plenty of folks strolling round these gardens. Follow the trail a brief means alongside the river to achieve the waterfall.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjiyeon Waterfall Rock
Cheonjiyeon Waterfall written on a rock

My first impression was total it’s a reasonably touristy spot as there have been plenty of folks there attempting to take footage with/of the waterfall. The foliage and paths are nicely taken care of although. Also, it had been fairly dry within the earlier days so the waterfall wasn’t very massive – they typically are grander after there’s been some rainfall.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjiyeon Waterfall
Cheonjiyeon Waterfall

Don’t be fooled by the shortage of individuals within the shot as a result of it was crowded! You’ll should time it proper or angle your self artfully in order for you a shot with out folks in it.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjiyeon Waterfall Photospot
Crowded!

There’s not a lot else to see right here in addition to a pleasant nature stroll and the waterfall so I didn’t spend too lengthy right here. It’s apparently additionally open at night time and lit up then, so one thing you may contemplate squeezing into your itinerary should you’re quick on daylight.

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall 천지연폭포 cheonjiyeon pokpo [Naver maps]. Entrance price 2,000 KRW. Open 9am – 10pm (final entry 920pm). There is a bus interchange right here.

Saeseom Island 새섬

The Seogwipo port space is kind of fairly so after visiting Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, I took a stroll to the following nearest landmark – Saeseom Island which is related by way of Saeyeon Bridge 새연교와 with its distinctive white sail.

Jeju Seogwipo Port View
View from close to my hostel overlooking the port – Cheonjiyeon is to the best, Saeseom and the bridge to the left

Saeseom Island is meant to be a pleasant pure spot and a very good place for birdwatching however sadly it was closed for some motive that day, so I solely acquired to stroll throughout Saeyeon Bridge earlier than having to show again once more. The bridge form is meant to be impressed by Tewu, a standard longboat in Jeju.

Jeju Seogwipo Saeyeongyo Bridge
Saeyeongyo and its tall white sail
Jeju Seogwipo Saeseom Island
Saeseom Island – couldn’t enter it trigger it was closed!

Saeseom Island 새섬 [naver maps]. Open 6am – 10pm.

Jeongbang Waterfall 정방폭포

The waterfall that I used to be notably involved in seeing was Jeongbang Waterfall, touted as the one waterfall in Asia that falls straight into the ocean. It’s one of many high sights to see in Seogwipo and there are some legends behind it however I used to be principally involved in having fun with the surroundings.

Jeju Seogwipo Jeongbang Waterfall Park Entrance
Entrance to the park

You should stroll via a park and previous the Seobok Exhibition Hall to get to the ticket workplace. From there, it’s a brief climb down some stairs to the bottom of the waterfall the place sadly, you will notice plenty of different folks there attempting to take pleasure in the identical view as you. What’s cool about Jeongbang Waterfall is which you could truly get proper up near the bottom of the waterfall and really feel the spray on you.

Jeju Seogwipo Jeongbang Waterfall Stairs
View of the partitions earlier than taking place the steps – there are literally 2 streams and that cliff is about 23m excessive.

I occurred to go to late within the day not lengthy earlier than closing time, and that turned out to be a blessing in disguise. There have been so many individuals and I had hassle getting a very good shot, however at closing time, employees got here to chase folks and tour teams out and I managed to dally until most individuals have been gone earlier than snapping a few fast photographs with some sundown lighting and no person posing within the background.

Jeju Seogwipo Jeongbang Waterfall Crowd
Crowded!
Jeju Seogwipo Jeongbang Waterfall Me
A uncommon shot with nobody else in it
Jeju Seogwipo Jeongbang Waterfall Sunset
Here’s a parting shot with a little bit of sundown glow as I departed

Jeongbang Waterfall 정방폭포 jeongbang pokpo [naver maps]. Entrance price 2,000 KRW. Open 9am – 6pm (final entry 520pm). I took a taxi from Oedolgae right here as a result of I used to be a bit lazy, and the closest bus cease is Seobok Exhibition Hall 서복전시관 (inexperienced bus 651 & 652).
From Cheonjiyeon Waterfall you may take inexperienced bus 641 or yellow bus 880 and stroll 10-Quarter-hour to get to Jeongbang Waterfall.

Oedolgae 외돌개

The subsequent morning, I made a decision to a do some mountain climbing to get from Seogwipo’s port space the place Cheonjiyeon is positioned to Oedolgae alongside the coast. Luckily it wasn’t too scorching as a result of there was a stretch the place I needed to do a little bit of stair climbing, however in the end it was good simply to stroll alongside the coast line.

Oedolgae is mainly a 20m tall stone pillar alongside Seogwipo’s coast. There are various legends about it being a grandma ready for her fisherman husband to return again from sea or a basic used to deceive an opposing military, and it was additionally the backdrop in a scene of the well-known Kdrama Daejanggeum. Come within the evenings in order for you good fiery skies for fairly sundown pictures.

Jeju Seogwipo Oedolgae
Oedolgae

Besides that one pillar of rock, you may also take a stroll alongside the shoreline which is good and shaded and has plenty of greenery and coastal views. I walked eastwards in the direction of the pure rock swimming pools or fairy swimming pools aka Seonnyeontang 선녀탕.

Jeju Seogwipo Oedolgae Coastline
Here’s a have a look at the shoreline
Jeju Seogwipo Oedolgae Me
Enjoying the view
Jeju Seogwipo Oedolgae Munseom View
This lookout level is named Hill of Storms on Google however I’m unsure why precisely!
Jeju Seogwipo Seonnyeotang
A staircase leads down to those pure ‘fairy’ swimming pools – it was too chilly in my view for swimming however there have been various individuals who swam anyway

Oedolgae 외돌개 [naver maps] is alongside Jeju Olle Route 7. I walked right here from Cheonjiyeon Waterfall as a result of taking a bus was too troublesome.

Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market 서귀포매일 올레시장

The equal to Jeju City’s Dongmun Night Market, Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market is the place I ended up getting dinner most nights in Seogwipo. It’s a big lined market with plenty of meals, purchasing and memento choices. My hostel was strolling distance away (albeit up a sloping street) and this market was at all times crowded. Lots of the everyday Jeju seafood and hallabong outlets will be discovered all through the market.

Jeju Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market Entrance
One of many entrances

What to eat at Seogwipo Maeil Olle Markt? Just comply with the queues! I observed these lengthy queues at a store referred to as 네거리올레 올레시장점 (interprets to Crossroads Olle Market) which is a store promoting black pork gimbap – as a substitute of rolling rice in seaweed like typical gimbap, they use a skinny layer of Jeju black pork to carry all the things collectively and deep fry that as a substitute! I gave it a miss on my first night time however determined to see what the large deal was the next night time when the queues weren’t as scary. I did nonetheless have to attend for about half an hour.

Jeju Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market Queue
There are benches down the centre the place you may sit and eat
Jeju Seogwipo Maeil Olle Katsu Gimbap
There have been plenty of flavour choices, I opted for black pork and abalone since that appeared probably the most Jeju like, although I used to be very tempted by the black pork curry! This is one roll for 10,000 KRW

Seogwipo Maeil Olle Market 서귀포매일 올레시장 [naver maps]. 네거리올레 올레시장점 negoriolre olresijangjom [naver maps]. It’s within the metropolis centre with fairly a couple of bus choices.

Jungmun 중문

Jungmun is one other district west of Seogwipo City the place you’ll discover one other cluster of coastal sights and waterfalls. It’s additionally well-known for the World Cup Stadium, International Convention Centre.

Jusangjeollidae 주상절리대

One of the pure rock formations I used to be amazed by as a child was the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland that are naturally forming hexagonal pillars that appear like a staircaes of types, and I used to be fairly shocked that there was one thing comparable right here in Korea. Known as Jusangjeolli cliff, these are cooled lava from Mount Hallasan erupting a very long time in the past.

Jeju Seogwipo Jusangjeollidae Hexagon Pillars
Jusangjeollidae hexagonal pillars
Jeju Seogwipo Jusangjeollidae Hexagon Pillars Closer
Jeju Seogwipo Jusangjeollidae Hexagon Pillars Closer

They’ve turned this space right into a park of types with a small entrance price and a pleasant viewing deck with some outlets, however there’s not a lot else round right here. It was additionally very crowded!

Jeju Seogwipo Jusangjeollidae Entrance
Entrance with outlets on the best

Jusangjeollidae 주상절리대 [naver maps]. Entrance price 2,000 KRW. Open 9am – 5pm. Closest bus cease is Jeju ICC about 10 minutes stroll away.
The bus routes between Oedolgae and right here have been a bit convoluted or required strolling from one other bus cease virtually 30 minutes away, so I took a taxi which price me about 13,000 KRW.

Cheonjeyeon Waterfall 천제연폭포

This is one other of the key waterfalls to see within the Seogwipo space and consists of three waterfalls (be aware: CheonJEyeon shouldn’t be the identical as CheonJIyeon (in Seogwipo City). It’s not removed from Jusangjeollidae so I made a decision to take a stroll over to test it out. The waterfalls are positioned in a pleasant valley of types with plenty of greenery and part of the bigger Jungmun Tourist Complex which consists of various accommodations and sights within the Jungmun space.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall Seonimgyo Bridge Far
I made a decision to stroll right here from Jusangjeollidae as a result of it wasn’t that far (didn’t anticipate the upslope) and you’ll see the bridge within the distance

I popped by Cheonjeru Pavillion 천제루 proper subsequent to the bridge in facet the doorway of the park for a break – beautiful views and structure.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall Pavilion
I like olden Korean interiors, such fairly colors

This bridge is Seonin Bridge or Seonimgyo 선임교 which you cross to get to the primary waterfall space. It’s often known as the 7 nymphs (which is said to a Korean legend) bridge due to the carvings on the facet of it.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall Seonimgyo Bridge
Seonimgyo – handy photograph level subsequent to the bridge for pix of it
Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall Seonimgyo Bridge Me
Hello from the highest of the bridge – a river runs beneath but it surely appeared slightly dry

There are 3 waterfalls to go to right here, however I used to be fairly pooped out from all of the strolling I’d executed that day so I opted to see simply two of them.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall Path
pathways to the waterfall

Waterfall 1 was only a pond as a result of it hadn’t been raining not too long ago – these falls solely present up when there was heavy rainfall! Still a stunning deep blue pool although.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall 1
Waterfall 1

Waterfall quantity 2 is smaller, and there’s another story right here about troopers working towards their archery by taking pictures into the falls.

Jeju Seogwipo Cheonjeyeon Waterfall 2
Waterfall 2

Cheonjeyeon Waterfall 천제연폭포 cheonjeyeon popkpo [Naver maps]. Entrance price 2,500 KRW. Open 9am – 5pm.

Andeok 안덕

The final cease of the day concerned me hopping again onto the bus and travelling even additional west alongside the southern coast line to the looming bell-shaped Sanbang Mountain aka Sanbangsan, one of many three most distinguished mountains in Jeju together with Hallansan and Seongsan Ilchulbong. It’s fairly onerous to overlook as a result of the panorama round right here is generally flat. The mountain presents some spectacular views of the Yongmeori Coast and Sagye-ri.

Sanbangsan 산방산

Yet one other of Jeju’s mountains fashioned by volcanic exercise, Sanbangsan has a temple on its southern slopes generally known as Bomunsa temple 보문사 which has conventional Korean structure and many large statues, together with a big golden Buddha – learn extra about this temple at Korean Temple Guide. But this isn’t the rationale most individuals come to go to Sanbangsan

Jeju Seogwipo Sanbangsan Entrance
At the foot of Sanbangsan
Jeju Seogwipo Sanbangsan Temple
Traditional Korean structure
Jeju Seogwipo Sanbangsan Statue
A big golden Buddha

Sanbangsan bomunsa 산방산 보문사 [naver maps]. Take bus 202 or 752-2 and cease at Sanbangsan cease.

Sanbangsan’s title interprets into one thing like ‘cave in mountain’, and that’s as a result of should you make an effort to climb these stairs up about 150m, you may go to its sea cave grotto temple Sanbanggulsa 산방굴사 the place you may also take pleasure in some lofty views of the shoreline. I used to be curious to see what it appeared like – it was fairly a small cave on the high of the steps crammed with statues, candles and choices. The views from up excessive have been additionally very good.

Jeju Seogwipo Sanbangsan Stairs
More stairs to climb aka story of my life when visiting Korea
Jeju Seogwipo Sanbanggulsa Ticket Office
There is a ticket workplace right here the place you may also purchase temple-related objects for prayer and a few snacks
Jeju Seogwipo Sanbangsan View
View on the way in which up of Yongmeori Coast!
Jeju Seogwipo Sanbanggulsa Cave Temple
The cave on the high is kind of small and has some statues in it and many locations to supply prayer

Sanbang gulsa 산방굴사 [naver maps]. Entrance price 1,000 KRW (2,500 KRW should you’re combining with the Yongmeori Coast ticket). You must climb lots of stairs!

Yongmeori Beach 용머리해안

After descending from Sanbanggulsa, I headed throughout the street and down in the direction of Yongmeori Beach, named as a result of it apparently seems to be like a dragon’s head and recognized for some wonderful coastal rock formations which have been awarded UNESCO standing. Here’s the factor although – Yongmeori Beach can solely be visited when the tide is low, so undoubtedly verify the tide timings and climate forecast earlier than you go to otherwise you’ll find yourself unable to go to like me >_<

Jeju Seogwipo Sanbangsan
Sanbangsan from the coast
Jeju Seogwipo Yongmeori Coast Pano
That’s the closest I acquired to Yongmeori Beach sadly

Yongmeori Beach 용머리해안 [naver maps]. Entrance price 2,000 KRW (2,500 KRW if mixed with Sanbanggulsa). Only open when tide is low and climate is nice.

Despite not attending to see the coastal rock options, I did pop by another issues within the space, like this 1600s ship which is a reproduction of a Dutch ship that Hendrick Hamel was on when it was shipwrecked en route from Japan to Taiwan. Hamel was the primary to doc about Korea and this ship celebrated the 350th anniversary of his surprising arrival.

Jeju Seogwipo Yongmeori Ship Exterior
Hamel’s ship

You can truly go inside – it’s 2 flooring of reveals concerning the shipwreck and Korea’s historical past together with some somewhat creepy trying dioramas. Entrance is free – I wouldn’t exit of my strategy to go to however because it was there I simply strolled in for a glance.

Jeju Seogwipo Yongmeori Ship interior
In the ship

Yongmeori Hamel Merchant Marine Exhibition Hall 용머리하멜상선전시관 yongmori hamel sangsonjonsigwan [naver maps]. Free entrance. Open 8am – 6pm in summer season (5pm in winter).

There additionally appeared to be some type of mini funfair taking place right here, with some theme park rides, horse using, sport and meals stalls. Not too certain if this can be a everlasting function but it surely’s one thing to entertain the children if you want to.

Jeju Seogwipo Yongmeori Fair
Mini enjoyable truthful alongside Yongmeori Coast

Where to remain in Seogwipo City

I based mostly myself in Seogwipo City to discover these elements slightly higher. Seogwipo is definitely a reasonably large metropolis and staying near the bus station and Olle Market would in all probability have been probably the most handy, however I selected to remain slightly nearer the coast.

Gudeok Guesthouse 구덕게스트하우스 (Jeju Hiking Inn)

I stayed 3 nights in Gudeok Guesthouse which is often known as Jeju Hiking Inn. It’s strolling distance to Cheonijyeon falls and the port space, in addition to Olle Market.

Jeju Seogwipo Gudeok Guesthouse Exterior
Gudeok Guesthouse
Jeju Seogwipo Gudeok Guesthouse Lobby
Lots of little knick knacks and persona on the partitions of this guesthouse

Gudeok Guesthouse is likely one of the older guesthouses that has been round for fairly awhile, and so they get lots of company who’re planning to climb Hallasan right here. It’s 7 storeys tall and sadly there’s no carry so ensure you can haul your baggage up there stairs! I had a single room on the fifth flooring with slightly little bit of a view of the harbour space.

Overall the room was enough with all the standard facilities and had an connected lavatory, however the furnishings are a bit previous although most issues are clear and nicely taken care of.

Jeju Seogwipo Gudeok Guesthouse Room
My room from the doorway
Jeju Seogwipo Gudeok Guesthouse Bathroom
connected lavatory subsequent to the doorway

It’s acquired a pleasant hostel communal vibe although – climb as much as the rooftop the place there’s a pantry and in addition a stunning lounge space with nice views. I sat up right here on some evenings and made associates with fellow travellers from each Korea and abroad.

Jeju Seogwipo Gudeok Guesthouse Rooftop
Lounge on the rooftop
Jeju Seogwipo Gudeok Guesthouse Rooftop View
Lovely views!

It price me about 107,000 KRW (about S$110) to remain right here for 3 nights (about S$36/night time), which is unquestionably fairly reasonably priced particularly for a personal room!

Check out Gudeok Guesthouse aka Jeju Hiking Inn Check out Gudeok Guesthouse on reserving.com [affiliate link]

Another place I used to be contemplating was Slow Citi Guesthouse [affiliate link] which is nearer the bus station and market and has each dorms and personal rooms.

Good Day Pension [affiliate link] appeared like fairly a reasonably spot with studio flats and bigger household flats but it surely’s not fairly close to the primary city space. It jogs my memory slightly of the place I stayed in Aewol.


How to get round Jeju

Most folks lease a automotive to get round Jeju, however as a solo traveller, I took a mix of Jeju’s public buses and taxis booked by way of Kakao T. Read extra about navigating Jeju by public transport.

Seogwipo’s sights are fairly unfold out alongside the coast so driving provides you probably the most flexibility for certain, however anticipate site visitors jams across the Seogwipo City space throughout peak hours.

Flight from Singapore to Jeju

Scoot presently flies 3 instances per week that go straight from Singapore’s Changi Airport to Jeju International Airport (CJU) that takes about 5.5 hours – beforehand you’d should transit in Seoul or Busan and purchase a home flight to get to Jeju. It’s a red-eye flight so that you’ll attain Jeju shiny and early within the morning – prepare for an early verify in or to depart your baggage if attainable.

  • SIN – CJU: TR812 0135 – 845
  • CJU – SIN: TR813 0945 – 1435

Note that there’s a 1 hour time distinction between Singapore and South Korea.

I bagged this flight throughout a promotion, and together with seat choice and verify in baggage, paid S$470+ for my spherical journey tickets which I believed was a reasonably rattling whole lot. Scoot additionally flies to Seoul so you could possibly contemplate an Open Jaw should you needed to go to Seoul as nicely or see if they’re working any joint promos.


Want to see extra of Jeju? Check out my newest Jeju posts beneath or see all my posts about South Korea

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