The Nomadic Life – Beyond the Little Red Dot

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The Nomadic Life – Beyond the Little Red Dot


While the nomadic tradition of Mongolia is extensively recognized, few have skilled the genuine way of life of a real nomad (and I’m not referring to fashionable digital nomads). As a part of a images tour to Mongolia, I had the chance to witness the Golden Eagle Festival firsthand. However, the actual cultural immersion got here after the competition after we loved a homestay with a nomadic Kazakh household who’re additionally eagle hunters. This expertise supplied perception into the each day lives of the Kazakhs, their deep-rooted traditions, and the intricate relationship they share with their golden eagles. It was a uncommon glimpse right into a lifestyle that has endured for hundreds of years, providing an understanding of their customs, challenges, and the fragile stability they keep with nature and their searching companions.

We arrived within the night after a few hours of driving by way of the darkness, our driver expertly navigating by intuition and his intimate information of the land. Upon our arrival, we had been warmly greeted by our hosts and handled to a conventional Kazakh welcome meal of “qoy basy”, a particular feast usually reserved for vital events. 

This is the standard sheep’s head meal often known as “qoy basy”. The sheep’s head is boiled for hours till tender, and positioned within the center, accompanied by potatoes, meat and abdomen from the sheep, and rolled flour dumplings to take in the flavorful broth.

After the dinner which was adopted by ending off a big bottle of Mongolian vodka, we had been prepared to show in for the night time and had been proven to our ger.

Being nomadic meant that there aren’t any of the creature comforts of city dwelling that we’re so used to. No baths that night time since there is no such thing as a operating water. We needed to depend on additional batteries and energy banks if we needed to make use of our cameras and telephones since there is no such thing as a electrical energy. If we would have liked to reply the decision of nature our guides had arrange a subject bathroom outdoors which is a small open prime tent round a gap within the floor. Our ger whereas cozy, had no heating apart from a central coal burning range and chimney which burnt out in the midst of the freezing night time. But, mockingly there was 4G cellphone reception since we had been inside vary of a small city’s mobile tower.

The inconvenience of not having fashionable facilities was made worthwhile by the view of the Milky Way above our gers..
Morning got here and we woke as much as see the nomadic household going about their actions on the farm.
Wealth for nomads is measured by the variety of animals they personal, and so they actually had an enormous herd of goats, cows, camels and horses.
They additionally had a herd of camels, which they collected the milk to be offered to the close by city.
I couldn’t resist taking this photograph of one of many youngsters as he climbed up the submit.

The farm is definitely the household’s winter abode. In the summer time they spend their time up within the mountains with their animals the place there may be ample pasture for grazing. But with winter coming, they’ve moved down into the valley with their animals the place their farm is positioned. This explicit household had been additionally eagle hunters and so they gave us the chance to rise up shut with their eagles, in addition to, a private photograph shoot.

We drove as much as the close by foothills of the mountain vary, whereas they made their manner up on horses.
Our host and patriarch of the household. He actually appears like a Mongol warrior from days of previous right here.
A dangerous pose to do if you happen to don’t know your eagle properly. Your nostril may get ripped of by that sharp beak.
Our driver catching a smoke break whereas ready for us to complete the photograph taking session.

So how do you prepare an eagle to hunt for you? They are normally captured from their nest when younger (1-4 years previous). Female golden eagles are most well-liked as they develop bigger than the males and are thought of fiercer and therefore higher hunters. The hunter then spends time bonding with the eagle and coaching it to hunt. This includes acclimatizing the eagle to human presence and the hunter’s voice, coaching it easy methods to perch on the hunter’s arm, responding to calls from the hunter and catching prey underneath managed situations. Later when the eagle is proficient, they’re educated to catch bigger prey like hares and foxes. According to our host, eagles may even hunt giant prey like wolves however they want at the least 3 eagles to take down a wolf. It takes 3 to 4 years to coach an eagle to be a proficient hunter. Hunters deal with their eagles properly, since in the event that they ailing deal with it, the eagle will fly away and by no means come again. After 6 to 7 years of service with the hunter, the eagle is launched again into the wild to replenish the wild inhabitants.

Our October go to coincided with the essential interval when eagles are being conditioned and educated for the upcoming searching season. Peak searching season happens in winter from December to February. Temperatures drop to -30°C or decrease and snow blankets the bottom in white, making it simpler for the eagles with their eager eye sight to identify prey like hares, marmots and foxes. Modern rules conflict with custom as our host explains that the eagle hunters now must get permits to hunt because of conservation efforts to protect the wild animal inhabitants.

Coming again to the farm, our fierce eagle hunter had modified again to his on a regular basis garments and all of the sudden he’s a gentle wanting 75 years previous grandfather of 19 grandchildren.
We additionally realized about his life story. He served within the Soviet military throughout the time of the USSR (that’s a photograph of him in uniform in his youthful days). After the autumn of the Soviet Union, he left the military and moved again to Mongolia and adopted the nomadic life. He’s a revered elder of the group and people medals are from being champion on the Eagle Festival a number of occasions, and from the state for contributions to his group.

Before lengthy, it was time to bid farewell to our gracious host and his prolonged household. After having fun with a hearty and scrumptious lunch of fried wheat noodles paired with savory minced mutton, we set off on our journey again to Khovd. However, there was no precise highway to information us; we had been deep within the coronary heart of the steppes. Our journey again to civilization was as nomadic because it may get, navigating by way of the huge, open panorama with solely the pure terrain to paved the way.

There aren’t any roads out within the steppes. Our driver depended solely on his reminiscence of the land, and recognizing land options like mountains as landmarks. Following previous tire tracks doesn’t imply you’re going in the best path.
At occasions I assumed we had been misplaced, and needed to belief in our driver’s sense of path. Passing by a few gers is the one signal of human presence. You wouldn’t need to get misplaced or have a car breakdown right here as there’s no cellphone reception to name for assist.
We simply needed to cease for a photograph second with these yaks and the attractive snowcapped mountain behind.
We even needed to cross a river alongside the best way. The Russian UAZ is made for crossing such terrain effortlessly.

After 3 hours of off highway driving by way of the steppes, climbing mountain passes by way of snowfields, passing by yaks, horses, camels and crossing a river, we lastly made it to the freeway resulting in Khovd. This journey actually encapsulated the essence of nomadic life, reminding us of the liberty and unpredictability that comes with touring by way of such breathtaking wilderness.

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