Alright, folks, buckle up. We’re trading the well-trodden paths of southern Sweden for the land of the midnight sun, reindeer, and a frankly alarming number of islands. I’ve done the southern thing. It’s lovely. It’s also where everyone else goes. This time, I went north. Way north. And my retinas are still recovering from all that never-ending summer light.
This isn’t your grandma’s Sweden itinerary (unless your grandma is a total badass who kayaks archipelagos for fun). This is a 10-day jaunt through the less-touristy, mosquito-ier, and utterly spectacular north. You’ll need a car, a healthy appetite for adventure, and probably a gallon of bug spray.
The “I Can’t Believe This is Just the Start” Leg: Luleå (Days 1 & 2)
Luleå is the last big city before things get really… Lapland-y. It’s cozy, with a population of 50,000, which in northern terms is basically a megalopolis.
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The Archipelago: Luleå’s got over 1,300 islands. I didn’t count them all, but I trust the math. This is where southern Swedes flee to in summer. You can kayak, hike, or just dramatically pose on a rock like a Viking discovering a new fjord. Popular islands have names like Kluntarna and Brändöskär, which are as fun to say as they are to visit.
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Gammelstad Church Town: Imagine a 15th-century stone church surrounded by 400 adorable red wooden cottages. It’s not a weird dollhouse collection; it was a practical solution for parishioners who traveled far. Now it’s a UNESCO site and a fantastic place for a stroll.
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Hike Something: The air is clean, the trails are calling. Do the Hertsöleden trail (easy, 8km) and feel virtuous. Or be a masochist and tackle the Vitån (challenging, 12km). Your choice.
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Stay & Eat: I crashed at the Clarion Hotel Sense. Comfy beds, a breakfast buffet that could feed a small army—what’s not to love? For food, head to the harbor and find Bistron. Tell them the slightly sun-stunned travel writer sent you.
The “University Town with a Guitar Problem” Leg: Umeå (Days 3 & 4)
A 4-hour drive south lands you in Umeå, a city powered by students and, apparently, rock and roll.
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Guitars the Museum: This place is ridiculously cool. It’s a shrine to electric guitars from the 50s and 60s. I know about as much about guitars as a moose does about astrophysics, and I still loved it. Get the guided tour—it’s worth it.
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Västerbottens Museum: For when you need a break from air guitar. It’s a great deep dive into the region’s history, from Sami culture to herring fishing.
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Umedalens Skulpturpark: A free, open-air art park. It’s culture, but with fresh air. You can’t beat that.
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Stay & Drink: Hotell Björken is a solid, affordable base. For dinner, hit Bodegan or Eljest. Then, stumble into Facit Bar for a drink that probably has ingredients you’ve never heard of.
The “Blink and You’ll Miss It” Gateway: Örnsköldsvik (Day 5)
Ö-vik (as the cool locals call it) is basically the pit stop before the main event. It’s pleasant! But you’re really here for what’s next.
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Do a Thing: Kayak. Swim at Gullviks havsbad beach. Or just mentally prepare for hiking.
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Stay: Elite Plaza Hotel is fancy-pants on the harbor. For a more outdoorsy vibe, FriluftsByn is a cool campsite with a great social scene.
The “Holy Wow, This is Why I Came” Leg: Skuleskogen National Park (Day 6)
This. This right here. The crown jewel. A place where ancient forests slam into a rugged coast. The star of the show is Slåttdalsskrevan, a massive, awe-inspiring crevice in the earth that makes you feel very, very small.
My Pro-Tips for Surviving the Awesomeness:
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You need a car. There is no negotiation here. The parking lots are small, so go early.
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The South Gate is the popular, crowded entrance to the crevice.
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The West Gate is for the savvy traveler—better views, fewer people.
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Bring ALL your own food and water. The trees are not, unfortunately, made of sandwiches.
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MOSQUITOES. The state bird of northern Sweden in summer is the mosquito. Bathe in repellent. Thank me later.
I’m a fast hiker and I still found the trail times to be pretty accurate. Don’t be a hero. Just enjoy it.
The “Stone City Recovery Zone” Leg: Sundsvall (Days 7 & 8)
After all that nature, Sundsvall is a perfect landing pad. Burnt down in 1888, it was rebuilt in stone, so it’s got a cool, elegant vibe.
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Kulturmagasinet: Culture in a converted warehouse. Always a win.
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Norra Berget: An open-air museum on a hill with great city views. History with a side of panorama.
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Sidsjön Lake: A mere 10 minutes away for a quick paddle or a lazy swim.
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Stay: Lilla Hotellet is a charming, small hotel that feels like a hug.
The “Back to (Awesome) Civilization” Finale: Uppsala (Days 8 & 9)
We end in Uppsala, a brilliant university town buzzing with energy and history.
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Gamla Uppsala: Massive Viking burial mounds. Climb them. Feel the history. Try not to summon any ancient gods.
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Uppsala Cathedral: It’s huge, it’s Gothic, it’s where kings are buried. It’s exactly as impressive as it sounds.
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Fika Like a Student: The university area is riddled with affordable cafes and bars. Soak it in.
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Stay: Uppsala City Hostel for budgeteers, or Botanika Uppsala for a nicer stay next to the oldest botanical garden in Sweden.
So there you have it. My personal, slightly sun-addled, mosquito-bitten guide to a part of Sweden that will absolutely steal your heart. Now go forth and explore! Just remember the bug spray. Seriously.
Ready to actually plan this thing? I’ve got you covered.
ELENA MAKREE