Encounters within the mist: Exploring Uganda’s gorilla sanctuaries 


When Susan Portnoy left for a gorilla-themed journey in Uganda’s rainforests, she hoped for a detailed counter with these nice apes. She discovered one thing much more profound – a real connection. 

The silverback emerged from a dense tangle of timber like an apparition. It was Tinfayo (that means ‘I don’t care’), the top of the Mishaya household. True to his identify, he behaved like our merry band of 9 travellers was invisible. He barely acknowledged our presence earlier than calmly disappearing into the woodlands of Uganda’s Bwindi Forest National Park. 

I, then again, was dying! ‘It’s a silverback! It’s a silverback!’ My ideas screamed. 

Gloria, a ten-year veteran of the park and our lead information, together with native trackers, gestured us ahead. Our winding, uphill trek had adopted a slender elephant path till then, however to comply with the gorillas, we’d should bushwack by thick brush and shoe-sucking mud. We have been all in.  

We discovered Tinfayo sitting tall in a pot-bellied profile, framed by foliage like a museum diorama come to life. From slender branches, he plucked leaves with thick fingers, then shoved them into his mouth, greedily reaching for extra as he chewed. Tugging my arm, a tracker guided me to a greater vantage level going through the 180-kilo silverback, and inside moments, our eyes locked. I felt like I’d received the lottery. 

I’ve all the time felt the phrase ‘an embarrassment of riches’ was pretentious. But it’s becoming once you’re an animal lover standing in the course of a household of gorillas.  

It was the seventh day of my journey in Rwanda and Uganda with Intrepid, a nine-day gorilla-themed journey. In addition to watching silverbacks, we additionally travelled lots of of miles of dramatic landscapes and rural villages and encountered all kinds of wildlife. On a ship cruise, we noticed so many hippos we dubbed the world ‘Hippo Soup.’ 

We additionally realized about progressive conservation methods developed by a Ugandan farmer residing on the border of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Using varied do-it-yourself innovations, he’s saved elephants and different wildlife from crossing onto his land and destroying his crops. The most spectacular creation was the elephant trench, a 20-kilometre-long, two-metre-wide, two-metre-deep channel dug by hand.  

My journey in Rwanda started on an airport shuttle with Idris Elba (sure, you learn that proper), the gifted British actor with a protracted record of spectacular movie credit. Despite the darkish and my 18-hours-in-coach daze, I recognised his deep, husky voice earlier than I realised it belonged to the broad-shouldered man in entrance of me. Making room for his spouse, he climbed into the shuttle that might take us from the tarmac to the terminal at Kigali National Airport.  

Two days later, I noticed the Elbas once more. This time below an excellent blue sky, within the foothills of Volcanos National Park. Part of the Virunga Massif, this park has a series of dormant volcanos shared with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Like Bwindi, this park can also be residence to the endangered mountain gorillas.  

The Elbas introduce toddler gorilla Narame, the son of Mudakama of the Mutobo household © Susan Portnoy

We have been there for Rwanda’s nineteenth annual Gorilla Naming Ceremony: Kwita Izina. It’s an enormous celebration primarily based on the Rwandan customized of naming a new child within the presence of family and friends. Since its inception, Kwita Izina has named 374 toddler gorillas in absentia.  

The festivities commemorate the nation’s profitable efforts to guard the gorillas and their habitat. It’s a feat made doable by the steadfast dedication of the area’s native communities which obtain 5 p.c of the income generated by gorilla tourism.  

Historically, laborious financial situations induced the locals to hunt mountain gorillas virtually to extinction. However, within the final couple of many years, there was a dramatic turnaround, and the individuals are additionally attempting to guard their nationwide treasures slightly than permitting them to vanish. During this time, the gorilla inhabitants has grown to a little bit over 1,000, a rise of 23 p.c. They are one of many world’s solely endangered species whose numbers are rising.  

As I received nearer to the Kwita Izina grounds, I heard the group earlier than I noticed it. Thousands of younger individuals from neighbouring villages sang, danced, and waved Rwandan flags. It was like a championship residence recreation, a present of ardour and pleasure. Fifty thousand individuals turned out for the televised occasion, which included a string of musical performances and conventional tribal dances.  

Our seats have been in a big VIP tent going through a stage dwarfed by a towering bamboo sculpture of a gorilla household (we’re speaking King Kong huge). There have been many notable company on the occasion, together with celebrities just like the Elbas, diplomats, sports activities icons and conservationists, lots of whom have been this yr’s namers. One namer (or pair of namers) for every gorilla born up to now 12 months took turns revealing the names that they had chosen for the newborn gorilla matched to them. 

The Elbas launched Narame, translated from Kinyarwanda as lengthy life. He is the son of Mudakama of the Mutobo household. ‘Mudakama has previously lost two children,’ mentioned Sabrina Dhowre Elba, along with her husband beside her. ‘We hope, more than anything, that this child lives a long life.’  

In a young tribute to late actor Chadwick Boseman, actress Danai Gurira, who performed Okoye in Wakanda Forever, named her child gorilla Aguka T’Challa, which implies growth, honouring Aguka’s mom, Ishyaka, who raised many youngsters. T’Challa was Boseman’s character within the film.  

‘There is little as fulfilling as to celebrate healthy new lives,’ mentioned Her Excellency, The First Lady of Rwanda, Jeannette Kagame, who closed the ceremony. ‘And our adorable baby gorillas are certainly worth this occasion.’

‘I once stood… as a proud namer of adorable, healthy twin baby gorillas [who are still alive today]. This was 19 years ago. To us, mountain gorillas represent more than a source of tourism or adventurous entertainment. To us, our gorillas are the custodians of the nature we truly cherish,’ she added. 


‘I’ve began the clock,’ introduced Gloria 4 days later as we first laid eyes on Tinfayo. ‘In 60 minutes, we must go.’  

Trekking after gorillas can take hours, however guests solely have 60 minutes to marvel at them to minimise human affect. I realized that, amongst different issues, from Dr Okwir Ricky Okello, a subject veterinarian with Gorilla Doctors an Intrepid Foundation accomplice and organisation of vets and researchers monitoring and treating the habituated mountain gorillas all through the massif.  

In 2020, Dr Ricky was instrumental in offering medical care to Tinfayo, who was severely injured, enabling him to return to his household. On the night previous to our trek, Dr Ricky and his colleague Dr Nelson Bukamba visited our group at our resort to talk with us about their work for a couple of hours.  

The Gorilla Doctors monitor roughly 20 habituated gorilla troops. Habituation (the place they’re comfy being round people) is a sluggish course of, taking almost two years of every day visits earlier than travellers can start to watch them. Every month, the vets assess every household for illness or harm. Incredibly, all of the medical care offered, together with x-rays and primary surgical procedure, is completed within the forest.  

Dr. Ricky - gorilla doctor speaking with an Intrepid traveller
Dr Ricky Okwir Okello of Gorilla Doctors © Susan Portnoy

I’ve all the time felt the phrase ‘an embarrassment of riches’ was pretentious. But it’s becoming once you’re an animal lover standing in the course of a household of gorillas.

A charismatic 13-month-old was placing on a present, beating her tiny chest, dangling from branches and rolling in leaves in full view. She had our hearts wrapped round her furry little fingers. A number of ft away, a mom nursed a new child. Nshongi, an 18-year-old feminine Gloria favoured, chewed her breakfast with gusto.  

Tinfayo used his enamel to scrape leaves off a vine he was pulling from left to proper. Periodically, his darkish amber eyes met mine, filling me with a fantastic sense of awe. For these few seconds, we related. At least it felt that means. Me and Tinfayo sharing an exquisite morning within the distant reaches of the Ugandan rainforest.  

Learn extra in regards to the Intrepid Foundation’s partnership with Gorilla Doctors and discover your personal small group trekking journey with Uganda and Rwanda’s nice apes.  

All pictures by Susan Portnoy.


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