Northern Italy and Switzerland | Passport Travel Diaries


With their jagged, sharp-toothed peaks, crystalline waters and enchanting medieval cities, Northern Italy and Switzerland have beckoned me for years. Legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner as soon as stated, “The Dolomites are a perfect blend of art and adventure, where nature has sculpted its own masterpieces,” and I’ve at all times wished to see these masterpieces for myself. As the rain began closing in at dwelling in Vancouver, Canada, my good friend Darcy and I launched into a whirlwind tour, touring in a loop from Lake Garda to Lake Como, with a fast Switzerland detour, earlier than lastly making our technique to the Dolomites.


northern italy and switzerland - Lido Palace exterior
northern italy and switzerland - Lido Palace spa

Arriving at Lake Garda and pulling as much as Lido Palace, the very first thing we discover is the constructing’s beautiful façade. The resort is an ideal mixture of previous and new—whereas the Belle Époque-style exterior, lounges and gardens all exude a timeless magnificence, the rooms are totally fashionable and design-focused, with minimalist furnishings, white and grey particulars and eclectic art work.

The fashionable influences are most evident, although, within the beautiful spa. Besides the indoor and outside swimming pools, there’s a standard Finnish sauna, a number of steam rooms and a pink Himalayan salt room. We spend a protracted, languid afternoon having fun with all of the spa’s delights. My favourite half was the number of “emotional” showers, every serving a distinct function and providing totally different sprays, pressures, temperatures and smells, comparable to mint, eucalyptus and lemongrass.

northern italy and switzerland - Riva del Garda lakefront walkway
northern italy and switzerland - Lido Palace pool

Although technically fall, summer time was nonetheless in full swing. The employees remarked that they’d by no means seen such a heat October. It was good climate for lounging by the pool, strolling alongside the lakefront promenade and exploring the charming city of Riva del Garda. In the night, we dined on pizza, seafood and Aperol Spritzes on the terrace of the energetic Bella Napoli restaurant.

northern italy and switzerland - Sentiero del Ponale

On our final morning, we hike alongside the Sentiero del Ponale, an deserted navy highway inbuilt 1851 that connects Riva del Garda and Valle di Ledro. Now closed to car site visitors and primarily utilized by cyclists and hikers, it winds its method treacherously alongside the cliffside. It is likely one of the most lovely roads I’ve ever seen. Every nook reveals one other breathtaking panorama of the lake. It was the right technique to cap off our first cease.


northern italy and switzerland - Passalacqua orange car
northern italy and switzerland - Passalacqua room

Departing Riva del Garda, we head to our subsequent lakefront vacation spot—two nights at Passalacqua on the western shores of Lake Como. Awarded Best Hotel within the World solely weeks previous to our arrival, the resort was abuzz with an air of giddy celebration.

The property’s 300 years of heritage are felt from the second you enter the gates. The vivid classic hues of rosy pink and mossy inexperienced, comfortable classical music, museum-quality artwork, effervescent fountains, glass chandeliers and spectacular terraced gardens all lend an air of refined splendor. At check-in, we’re every given a bouquet of flowers that the in-house florist, Daniela, prepares every day for arriving friends. When proven to our lavish pink suite, we discover additional treats awaiting us—champagne, grapes, a tray of native pastries and extra recent flowers.

northern italy and switzerland - Passalacqua pool

After the subsequent day’s leisurely breakfast, we map out our day—morning yoga, just a few hours lounging poolside, a personal spa session and, lastly, the complimentary exercise of the day: wine tasting. Passalacqua’s philosophy is embracing the nice Italian artwork of dolce far niente—doing nothing and having fun with it—and we deliberate on doing precisely that.

northern italy and switzerland - Passalacqua outdoor treadmill
northern italy and switzerland - Passalacqua greenhouse

The day is each bit as splendid as we hoped. Relaxed and pampered, we head right down to the underground cellar for the wine tasting offered by the resort sommelier, Valeria. Sipping numerous reds, whites and glowing rosés, we chat with the opposite friends and are amused to find we’re the one pair not on our honeymoon. This doesn’t shock us within the least—Passalacqua is a real honeymooner’s paradise.

During our quick stint right here, we discover that friends not often appeared to depart the property, and with good motive. Everything you could possibly probably want is inside attain. Formerly a community of underground stables, the tiered grounds are linked by a winding highway and embrace an underground spa, a gymnasium, a pool, a number of bars, a greenhouse seating space, tennis and bocce courts and way more. We seldom ventured out ourselves, solely leaving to purchase recent fruit and cheese from the market up the highway, then briefly to discover the city’s steep, slim cobblestoned lanes and quaint neighborhood retailers.


northern italy and switzerland - Park Hotel Vitznau restaurant at sunset
northern italy and switzerland - Lake Lucerne lakefront, Vitznau

Next, we head north, method north, to Vitznau on the shores of Lake Lucerne, Switzerland. Dotted with quaint Bavarian-style villages that appear plucked out of a storybook, Lake Lucerne is Switzerland at its best. The homes with flower-boxed home windows and steeply pitched roofs are straight out of The Sound of Music, and the emerald hills, cobbled streets, cute cafes and distant melody of cowbells full the postcard-perfect setting. Backdropped by towering Mount Rigi, Park Hotel Vitznau suits completely into this tableau. It’s like staying in a citadel out of a fairytale, however one with each fashionable amenity you could possibly probably need.

northern italy and switzerland - Park Hotel Vitznau breakfast
northern italy and switzerland - Park Hotel Vitznau breakfast

In the morning, we take out complimentary paddleboards and go for a paddle alongside the lakefront, drifting idly previous fishermen and picnicking households, absorbing the views and the quiet of the morning. Then we head for breakfast, which seems to be a number of the finest meals of our total journey—not too shocking, contemplating the Michelin-starred restaurant onsite. Darcy was particularly keen on the truffle croque monsieur, whereas I sampled a bit of little bit of the whole lot: vanilla bean French toast, crepes with chocolate and caramelized pears, smoked salmon within the form of a flower with a facet of caviar.

northern italy and switzerland - Park Hotel Vitznau pool
northern italy and switzerland - Park Hotel Vitznau spa aquarium

I had heard rumors in regards to the resort’s heated outside infinity pool, and it doesn’t disappoint. It’s 70 toes lengthy and appears straight out over the magnificent lake and mountainscape. The spa additionally contains an ice grotto, a tepidarium and a floor-to-ceiling saltwater aquarium. Lounging by the pool, we’re delighted to note a marriage being held within the grounds adjoining to the principle constructing. True to the resort’s nature, it’s an exquisite, elegant affair, and the music and common merriment drifting over from the social gathering felt like a heat addition to our keep.

The subsequent day, we go for a hike and are handled to extra sights of lush, rolling meadows, wild alpine flowers and sheep scattered alongside the panorama. We wrap up our quick Swiss interlude with dinner at a standard restaurant up the highway, Rütli, serving genuine, hearty Bavarian delicacies.


northern italy and switzerland - Dolomites

Looping again round into the province of South Tyrol, we head to the ultimate cease of the journey—FORESTIS within the Dolomites. As the solar begins to set, we make our method up the lengthy, winding highway linking the city of Brixen to the resort, and there, I get my first look on the majestic towering peaks that impressed this journey.

northern italy and switzerland - FORESTIS room

It’s true what they are saying: FORESTIS is paradise for outside fans. The welcome drink is fabricated from flowers and pinetree sap; the furnishings, soaps and shampoos are fabricated from spruce, stone pine and larch; the baths are carved from Dolomite stone. Every facet of the resort is pared again and easy, letting nature take centerstage.

northern italy and switzerland - Forestis Forest Cuisine dish
northern italy and switzerland - Forestis Forest Cuisine dish

After a protracted day of journey, we’re excited to go to our first seven-course meal within the amphitheater-style eating room. Every evening presents a distinct Forest Cuisine menu, curated by the chef and primarily based on native, pure components. Each course blows us away, from the pumpkin ravioli and roast beef with artichoke mash to the raspberry sorbet with pistachio and whipped ricotta for dessert.

northern italy and switzerland - Dolomites view at sunset

The subsequent morning, we be part of a guided stroll and Wyda vitality session within the forest. Wyda is Celtic yoga and is at all times performed outside, with the goal of attaining mindfulness by way of reference to nature. Local to the close by village, our information tells us all in regards to the magnificence and ease of life within the mountains.

northern italy and switzerland - Dolomites view
northern italy and switzerland - Dolomites viewed from FORESTIS pool

The remainder of the day we make our personal. While Darcy dips into the unbelievable spa services, I spend most of my time outside, getting misplaced within the mesmerizing labyrinth of trails. There’s a ski resort straight behind the resort, so the choices to make your method up the south-facing Plose slope are infinite. From each path, I may look over my shoulder and get one other glimpse of the enduring Dolomite views. In the night, we take pleasure in a glass of wine on our balcony whereas watching the sundown fade behind the craggy peaks.

northern italy and switzerland - FORESTIS outdoor forest sauna and cold plunge
northern italy and switzerland - FORESTIS pool

I take part on the spa actions the subsequent day. Following the instance of the Celts, the fantastic wellness choices use solely parts present in nature, and the resort’s alpine location 1800 meters above sea-level makes it an excellent spot for R&R. We float within the pool, learn our books in one among a number of leisure areas and take a look at the assorted steam rooms and Finnish saunas, together with an natural one and a cabin within the forest. Every part has floor-to-ceiling glass home windows, so the mountain views are current always.

On the final evening, we get pre-dinner cocktails and take them exterior to take pleasure in by the roaring hearth. The remoted location makes it an ideal spot for stargazing and quiet contemplation. We savor our final 7-course meal after which reluctantly put together for the journey dwelling. Taking extra trains than we may depend, Darcy spa-ing to her coronary heart’s content material and me fulfilling my alpine wanderlust (for now, not less than), our journey concerned a number of issues. Still, we spent a complete lot of time doing nothing in any respect, in the perfect method.

About the creator: Olivia Betts is a Kiwi Collection Marketing staff member and Passport Magazine Staff Writer at all times in the hunt for her subsequent journey.

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