I will be frank with you, I was afraid of going to Venice, everybody told me it was far too expensive, “bring a second mortgage”, they said. I went anyway and I found out something wonderful, that Venice does not have to cost you a fortune, you only need to know a few secrets. Let me tell you what I found out.
The Golden Rule: Eat Where the Locals Eat
This is something no one tells you: the restaurants near St. Mark’s Square are a snare. I learned the hard way, when I paid eighteen euros for a sub-par sandwich the very first afternoon. Charming—yes, but not cheap.
I later discovered little wine bars – bacari – scattered through the real neighborhoods, and everything changed.
Cicchetti: My Favorite Discovery
Cicchetti are Venice’s version of tapas. They are small, delicious snacks, served at the bar: crostini with a creamy cod sauce, fried sea creatures, marinated vegetables. Each portion costs around one and a half to three euro.
I would go into a bacaro, point to three or four dishes that seemed tempting, order an ombra (a small glass of wine), which costs between three and five euros, and eat like a king for less than fifteen euros. I would stand in the bacari surrounded by Italians, chatting and laughing—and finally feel like I was really living in Venice.
My go-to spots:
- Al Bocon Divino in Dorsoduro—a glass of wine and some appetisers for about thirteen euros.
- Cantine del Vino Gia Schiavi—legendary cicchetti, well worth every step in the search.
- Osteria Al Squero—watch gondolas being repaired while you eat.
The Supermarket Picnic
One of my favourite memories was the times when I would go to the SPAR in the morning and buy fresh bread, some cheese, and a bottle of wine, all for less than ten euros, and then go to sit by the side of a canal, my feet dangling into the water. No restaurant view could equal that.
Gelato and Coffee Wisdom
I would like someone to have told me: before buying ice cream, walk a little away from the central sights. I saw the cones at six euros, two streets back, for two and a half euros. It’s the same with the cafés, go to the counter like a local and pay one and a half euros instead of five at a table.
Seeing Venice Without Emptying Your Wallet
The beautiful truth of Venice? The best things in life are free.
My Free Favorites
The Basilica of Saint Mark, the Rialto, and the Canal Grande—all are free of charge, without fail; the mornings in Saint Mark’s Square, before the crowds arrive, are charming, and yet my heart belongs to the more peaceful quarters, Cannaregio and Dorsoduro, where real Venetians live. I lost myself in them for hours, and it was delightful.
The church of Santa Maria della Salute is free and affords one of the finest views in the city.
Smart Transport Tricks
A single vaporetto ride costs nine euros and fifty cents. A terrible price! A 24-hour ticket costs twenty-five euros. And if you stay three days, you can make considerable savings on multiday tickets.
The favourite budget trip was the traghetto, a public gondola, which for about two euros crossed the Grand Canal. The same experience as a €80 gondola trip, only shorter. I did it twice, just because I could.
When to Pay (and When Not To)
I did not go to the Doge’s Palace, which costs between 25 and 30 euros, because I had no great desire to see it; but if it is a matter of importance to you, make sure to book online in advance. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection, at 17-18 euros, is advisable for art lovers.
For the panorama, I went up the campanile of San Giorgio Maggiore instead of the bell-tower of St. Mark’s. It is cheaper, less crowded, and, for all I know, has a better view.
The Money-Saving Tips I Wish I’d Known Sooner
Stay in Mestre. I know you’d prefer to stay on the island, but Mestre is just a train ride away and costs half as much. I stayed there two nights and treated myself to better meals.
- Do not listen to the sellers of roses, they will give you a “free” rose and will demand ten euros, keep on walking.
Beware of cover charges. Some restaurants add a surcharge for the live music and outdoor tables. Ask before you sit down.
- Carry a flask. There are plenty of public fountains in Venice where one can get free, wholesome water. I constantly refilled mine.
What This Actually Costs
Let me tell you the truth. For three days in Venice — eating cicchetti, walking about and visiting free sights — I probably spent between two hundred and forty euros (excluding lodging), with a few extravagances: a special dinner, a pass for the waterbus and more gelatos than I should admit.
- For more luxury — one or two tourist sights, more meals in restaurants — you’d be looking at an expenditure of €300-400.
In any case, you will have plenty to eat, see some wonderful sights, and you will fall in love with this extraordinary, lovely city.
Your Turn
So my question to you is, what are your priorities when you are in Venice, the food, the art, the views, the free walk? Tell me, and I will tell you where to splurge and where to save. Believe me, Venice is waiting for you, and it’s less expensive than you think.
FRANCO NERO